the way.
“It is not the destination where you end up but the mishaps and memories you create along the WAY.” – Penelope Riley
Spoiler alert: My most recent adventure I am here to share with you has a destination. But the greater path I am on does not. In my last blog post (if you didn’t read it yet – what are you waiting for? Link here: https://thejenessentials.com/here-we-go-again/). I told you I was setting back out on the road. First stop, Spain. I would begin by walking the Camino de Santiago, a well-known pilgrimage through the northern part of Spain from the French border to the western coast. Again, read previous blog post for in-depth information about said pilgrimage.
I completed all 1000 kilometers (600 miles) in 43 days (I took a daily picture with the day count displayed on my hand for proof!) and will tell you all about the ups, the downs, and the uglies. This is my experience of El Camino, or the WAY. I hope you enjoy it.
calculated prep.
There are hundreds of available blogs that detail exactly what you need if you are planning to walk the Camino, so I am not going to do that here. I will, however, give you the highlights of how I planned for this trip because I have had many people ask me.
Highlights include:
- Less is more. Recommended weight for the bag is 10% of your weight, but I would try for less. You would be surprised at what you actually need and what you don’t.
- You’ll need some things you don’t typically travel with. Things such as travel sheets/sleeping bag (depending on the weather), towel, footcare essentials like Vaseline, foot balm, and compede/tape, laundry soap, and only quick dry clothing.
- Two of everything in regards to shirts, shorts, pants, underwear, etc.
- One pair of comfortable trail runner shoes and one pair of sandals.
- Stones/rocks/memorabilia.
- Step tracking device such as Apple watch, Garmin, etc.
I began preparing two months prior to leaving. The first thing I did was find the right shoes and started a training regime to walk long distances. I worked my way from an hour walk to a three-hour walk. I didn’t train with a backpack until the last week. I figured if my legs and stamina were there, I would be fine with extra weight. I went to REI to find the right socks, thrift stores to find lightweight clothing that didn’t cost an exuberant amount that I tested out while training and ordered things online like travel sheets and a headlamp.
Once everything was packed, my bag tipped the scales at 10kg (22lbs) – and that’s without snacks or water. Definitely heavier than most! I chalked it up to my contact lenses and personal hygiene must-haves. I reassured myself that I could always shed unnecessary items along the way. Physically, I was ready. But mentally? That was the real question.
For about 40 days, I’d be “off the grid.” I kept Wi-Fi access for texting and FaceTime but canceled my phone plan, left my laptop behind, and bid farewell to little luxuries like privacy and a good night’s sleep.
what is privacy?
I thought I knew what living in a hostel was like. If you have ever stayed in a hostel around the world, this section will hit home. If not, let me try to explain it. Hostels are communal living with shared dormitories and bathrooms. There are bunk beds, sleeping anywhere from four to 30 people (in my previous experience). Some hostels are well maintained with newer facilities, privacy curtains on the beds, individual night lamps, and outlets for each person. Some hostels, on the other hand, are quite the opposite. Rundown, smelly, no character, one outlet shared between 10 people, and limited bathrooms (this is the absolute worst). Hostels run from about $6 a night to $50 a night (the most expensive one I stayed in last year was Singapore) but the average is $15-20.
Hostels on the Camino have a unique vibe. Known as albergues, these accommodations are exclusively for pilgrims walking the Camino, ensuring there are enough beds for everyone on the trail. In smaller villages and towns with limited lodging options, you often can’t book in advance through a website. Instead, it’s a first-come, first-served system that encourages early starts.
Most pilgrims are up by 6:00 AM and out the door by 6:30 AM, eager to secure a spot at their next albergue. The coveted prize? A bed in a great location – and ideally, a bottom bunk, the universal favorite.
Many lodging options are run by local families that convert old homes into dorm style rooms. In recent years, there are newer albergues offering nicer amenities, but are the more expensive option. However, the most common and unique albergue choice is an old parish or monastery that can hold hundreds of people in one giant room. Typically, they are donation based, leave what you feel the accommodation deserves, and are run by nuns and priests.
I want you to imagine a small gymnasium in elementary school, put a bunch of old creaky bunk beds in it and you have an albergue. The largest dorm I stayed in held 200 people. On top of that, there are no sheets provided. When you check in, they give you what looks like a giant hair net. AKA a VERY basic mattress cover. Pilgrims travel with their own sheets. I bought one from amazon that zipped up like a sleeping bag. Blankets and towels are typically not provided (Except some locations in the mountains that are quite chilly) so some carry a lightweight sleeping bag. I often used my yoga towel for a blanket and slept in every warm piece of clothing I brought. Towels are also not provided. There are no curtains on the bunks, beds are close together, and personal space is questionable. All you are paying for is a place to sleep and a shower (usually cold). Bare minimum.
Staying in an albergue felt a bit like summer camp. Lights were out by 10 PM, though you might catch the soft glow of someone on their phone or hear the occasional muffled laughter. After a full day of walking, though, sleep usually came easy – even when the beds and sleeping conditions left much to be desired.
And then there was the snoring. Let’s call it a nightly “symphony.” While I won’t name names, the loudest and most consistent snores tended to come from the older crowd, particularly the men. Not a single night passed without an orchestra of noises erupting from every corner of the dorm. Earplugs? Absolutely essential. Without them, sleep is a distant dream. I’ve grown so dependent on mine that I can’t fall asleep without them – even when I have a room to myself, which let’s be honest, does not happen often.
Albergues do not typically have kitchens. Hostels around the world do to allow travelers to cook and save money. However, on the Camino, albergues offer a “pilgrims’ dinner”. For roughly $15, you get a three-course meal with a starter, main meal, dessert, all you can eat bread (Spanish love their white bread) and wine. Not quality wine, but don’t be picky. I would not say it’s the best food I have ever had, but after a long day of walking you are ravenous, and it doesn’t matter. I always ate everything on my plate and drank enough wine to feel like I got my money’s worth.
I’m not sharing these details to discourage anyone from walking the Camino – quite the opposite. There are plenty of options for those seeking a more comfortable experience. Along the route, you’ll find hotels and pensions, akin to bed-and-breakfasts, often with shared bathrooms, offering private rooms with real sheets, cozy towels, and comfortable beds. Many of the travelers choosing these accommodations tend to be older, often retirees. Honestly, I understand their choice – why not spend your money while you can?
In the larger cities, there are many apartments available on booking or AirBnB providing another alternative to albergues. If you can gather enough new friends together to go in on a shared apartment, it is very affordable, many times the same price as a shared dorm. I did this several times throughout the journey with pilgrims I met along the way. We cooked our own pilgrim’s dinner and enjoyed a much-needed good night’s sleep.
With my chronic back pain, I’m increasingly unsure how much longer I’ll be able to endure the typical hostel experience with its subpar mattresses. For now, I’ll suffer through it while I still can. There were moments when I broke down upon arriving at some of the more challenging albergues, overwhelmed by their conditions. But then I reminded myself: this is part of the journey. You have a roof over your head, food on the table, and people to share it with – so why the tears?
Through all this, I am reminded to never take things for granted. Which I know I have said before in previous blogs. This time it really hit home. Comfort and privacy are privileges. Staying in these different albergues was part of the experience. From the Christian based missionary home that did our laundry and prayed over us, to the Dutch run monastery that had singing priests over the loudspeaker at 6am, to the new Albergue with a beautiful spa attached, I have such fond memories (alongside the not so good ones) that I will keep with me forever. Now when I get to a hostel and it is not great, I think to myself – IT COULD BE WORSE!
one step at a time.
When I set out to begin this adventure, I knew it would be difficult. Nothing can really prepare you for it. If you can avoid getting blisters or a more serious injury, you have superpowers. Even after the blisters heal and the injury is manageable, your feet will inevitably be tired, sore, and not pretty. A reoccurring topic of conversation among fellow pilgrims was feet and everything about them – shared pain, blisters, preparation, tips for success, popping blisters, etc. I will never UNSEE some bare feet I encountered on the trail.
Apart from feet, which carry a lot of weight in how your Camino goes (pun intended), is the rest of your body. After the Pyrenees and mountains of Leon, sore muscles took your mind off your feet. As the days went on, I swear the bag got heavier and heavier. Even though in most cases it was getting lighter. Many larger towns had massage clinics or therapists that came to the albergues for a decent price. I treated myself to a massage about once a week – essential. The massage therapists are experienced with pilgrims and focus on legs, back and shoulders. Fellow travelers and I also found spas – usually in large gym complexes – in many towns that had saunas, steam rooms, cold plunges, and whirlpools with hydrotherapy. We struck GOLD, spending at least two hours soaking our feet, calming our muscles, finding complete relaxation, and leaving a new woman.
I won’t recount every detail of the journey, as some days were rather uneventful. On average, I walked between 12 km (7.5 miles) and 36 km (22.5 miles) per day, taking four rest days in the larger towns of Burgos, León, Santiago de Compostela, and Finisterre. My daily distances were often decided the night before, based on how I was feeling physically and emotionally. Several useful apps make planning and navigating the Camino easier, providing details on stage difficulty, accommodations, and attractions. I relied on the Buen Camino app for planning and the Wise Pilgrim app, with its offline map feature, to track my progress along the trail.
Once you arrive to your daily destination, find a bed, and have a shower, it is around 3 or 4pm. If you have visited Spain before you know that is right in the middle of siesta time. Restaurants, grocery stores, pharmacies, and small shops close for several hours in the middle of the afternoon and reopen around 5 or 6pm. Dinner time in Spain is also much later, so restaurants may not open until 7 or 8pm and do not get busy until 10pm. Normally this would be OK and schedule adaption is fine. Yet, not in this narrative.
After walking all morning and into the early afternoon, hunger inevitably sets in – at least for me. If you’re fortunate, you’ve packed some snacks, or you find a bar in town offering bocadillos, the ubiquitous Spanish sandwiches filled with cheese, ham, or chorizo. However, after countless bocadillos, they start to lose their appeal. Honestly, the sheer volume of white bread consumed in Spain feels like it should be illegal! Often, I’d ask if they had any vegetables or something unfried, only to be met with a chuckle and a firm “no” from the bartender. So, to stave off hunger and pass the time, I’d order a beer, strike up a conversation with new friends, or sneak in a quick nap.
Some of my favorite cities include Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon, O Cebreiro, and Muxia. The larger cities had beautiful cobblestone streets, stunning cathedrals with gold shrines and beautiful artwork, surrounded by parks and plazas everywhere. On the contrary, many villages had nothing but a few lodging options and one bar/restaurant. These small towns depend on the Camino throughout the year (high season May-October) often closing when pilgrims do not pass through. At least once a day, you walk through an abandoned village in the middle of farmlands. The scenery changed depending on what region you were in but was always beautiful! I walked through vineyards, pastures, mountains, rolling hills, sunflower and corn fields, and forests. Pictures do it better justice (link).
The late summer and early fall weather were ideal for walking. Crisp and chilly mornings gave way to warm, sunny afternoons, and the evenings cooled again—a perfect balance. Along the way, I developed a classic farmer’s tan, with clearer lines on my left side thanks to the sun tracking overhead as I walked. During the first three weeks, it rained only twice. One of those storms, a torrential downpour, left me sludging through muddy clay fields and trails, tears mixing with the rain.
When I reached Galicia, the rain returned with a vengeance. This northwestern region of Spain is notorious for its autumn rains, and it lived up to its reputation. 10 days of relentless wet weather. My pack never had a chance to dry completely. Each morning, I set out knowing I’d spend the day damp and cold – just have to embrace it. Most pilgrims walk the Camino in July and August to avoid this kind of weather, but I deliberately chose to go later for the cooler days and smaller crowds.
As the days and weeks continued, I got stronger physically as my body adapted to walking long distances. On the longer and harder days, I had my bag shipped to my next destination. The local mail carriers or small local transport companies pick up your bag from your current albergue and drop it off at a chosen destination. It costs only a measly six Euros a day. If you ask me, it is worth every penny to give my back and muscles a break.
my camino family.
Lucky for you, dear reader, I have saved the best for last: the incredible people I met along the way. Truthfully, it is hard to capture the essence of these connections in words. Each relationship was a treasure, and they became the heart of my journey.
The average pilgrim age is around 60. Hard to believe – right?? I was shocked when I read this knowing the journey is a physically demanding feat. However, after completing the Camino, I can confirm it is in fact TRUE! I will explain why. If you are planning to walk the entirety of the path, you need to plan for 30+ days off work. This is hard to come by in most US based professions, unless of course you are retired. And while it is a lot of walking, the terrain is relatively flat and manageable, except for the passage through the Pyrene mountain range (max height reaching about 11,000 feet, or 3,400 meters) if you choose to start in Saint Jean Pied de Port and the Montes de Leon (max height of about 8,000 feet, or 2,400 meters) which are unavoidable. And finally, in conversations with many older walkers, I discovered that this journey had been a lifelong dream for many of them. After years of anticipation, they rallied a group of friends and set off on this grand adventure. Better late than never, am I right?
Throughout my travels, I find it quite easy to connect with like-minded people that share my energy, sense of humor, and adventurous spirit. Everyone on the Camino already possessed a strong sense of adventure – that’s a given with an experience like this – so forming bonds came easily.
Day 1 I stopped at albergue Orisson – nestled in the Pyrene mountains. I was sitting at a table enjoying a glass of wine and reading a book when a friendly Danish woman asked if I wanted company. We instantly hit it off. We shared a bit about our lives, what led us to begin such an adventure and what we hoped to get out of this experience. The next morning, we hiked the rest of the mountain range together, and the rest is history. Christina and I bonded over hours and hours of conversation – no topic was off the table. We were vulnerable with each other, we shared details of our lives past and present, and we laughed until it hurt. Throughout the journey, we occasionally went our separate ways, staying back or going ahead due to injuries or preferred stops, but we ALWAYS found a way back to each other. Christina and I finished the Camino together, not only in Santiago de Compostela, but went on to the coast of Finisterre! I would not have wanted to end this beautiful journey with anyone else. Friends for a lifetime. Heart emoji.
Another huge part of my Camino journey was a woman from Australia named Ellen. She, like me, has been traveling for a while and has many fascinating stories to share. We met along the trail on day 5 or 6 with a group of a few others. As groups grow and diminish throughout the walk, Ellen and I stayed in sync. We sang songs and played games to pass the time, we comforted each other when times got a bit tough, we drank beer and ate patatas bravas to pass the time, and we knew when the other needed space or time alone. Ellen was certainly one of the most interesting people I met while walking and I cannot wait to see her again someday.
Other honorable mentions and impactful people I met include Mike, a hardworking and hilarious Irishman from Kerry; Mauro from Italy, a boisterous and kind artistic soul; Angela and Ella from New Zealand, a mother/daughter pair with a beautiful dynamic and so much personality and strength; Lydia from England, a witty and lovely human; and the group of Germans I met about half way through the trip who stopped often for beer, always had a flask of wine, and loved evening acoustic karaoke at the hostels. There are so many amazing people I met along the way that I could mention here, but the list is too long…and this blog post is already quite lengthy.
It is common to encounter the same people repeatedly along the Camino. While names might slip your mind, the sight of familiar faces brings a sense of comfort. You exchange a few words about your respective journeys before parting ways, knowing there’s a good chance you’ll cross paths again. Each meeting and farewell is accompanied with a “Buen Camino” – a phrase that never loses its charm. Even after hearing it hundreds of times.
appreciating the little things.
I could sit here and tell you everything was amazing…but as you have read, that is certainly not true. I mention, at length, the lack of privacy in the dorms, the physical demands in the body and feet, and the frequent food deserts (unless you love white bread). But after every storm, the sun comes out and if you’re lucky, there is a rainbow. And if you know me, you know I LOVE rainbows. On my final descent into Santiago with 3km remaining, a rainbow greeted Christina and me. A sign, a greeting, a message that I was on the right path and good things are ahead.
To brighten even the darkest days, I recommend leaning into what brings you joy. For me, that was yoga—no surprises there! After walking 15+ miles each day, stretching was the best gift I could give my tired, sore body. I’d invite anyone at the albergue to join me for a light 30-minute yoga or stretching session, either in a nearby park or an open space at the albergue. Sometimes the group grew to 10 people; other times, it was just me and one other. As a yoga teacher, this was my way of giving back to my fellow walkers. Though I could have charged or accepted donations, it simply didn’t feel right. I wanted to provide something along the way, so the way would then provide something for me in return.
There were many silver linings throughout my journey. I tried to find beauty in everything around me. The French way has three parts; 1.) body 2.) mind and 3.) spirit. The first section challenges your physical endurance and pain tolerance as your body learns to adjust to long, demanding days. The first few days are also when you realize whether you packed the appropriate items. Pilgrims frequently discard things along the way to lighten their load. Carrying everything you need on your back creates this detachment to excess and material things. The Camino reminded me of what I already knew, less is more.
The second stretch of the Camino takes you through la meseta, or the plateau – a flat, seemingly endless expanse. It’s characterized by long stretches along the roadside with no shade from the sun, endless fields of corn and sunflowers (mostly harvested by this time of year), and vast, monotonous views scattered with small, isolated towns. This part of the journey is categorized as the “mind” portion. A mental challenge that certainly tested me.
I vividly remember one low point when I arrived at an albergue, exhausted, only to find a room crammed with 30 beds, packed so tightly together it felt suffocating. Seeing that, I sank to the ground with tears rolling down my faces. In that moment, I had to pull myself together. Jennifer, you’re in a beautiful country, living an extraordinary experience, making memories that will last a lifetime – and you’re upset about a top bunk and a single shower for 30 people? A much-needed reality check. I reminded myself just how fortunate I was and vowed never to take this opportunity for granted again.
And finally, we have the spiritual section of the Camino. As you pass the town of Astorga, you begin to notice a shift in the atmosphere. There are religious crosses on every sign. Perspectives begin to change as pilgrims near the end of their journey. Friendships deepen. Realization sets in that it’s almost time to return home and confront that thing you set out to confront (if you haven’t already). Around day 25, you will encounter the famous Cruz de Faro, or iron cross, which is a powerful place of refuge where people release grief, burdens, evil, grudges, etc. by laying a stone or memento at the foot of the cross. I spent an hour here with Ellen and Christina embracing each other in a beautiful and vulnerable moment.
What did I appreciate the most about the Camino journey? No one judged one another for their religion or beliefs, no one questioned or challenged one another’s views. Everyone belonged, everyone accepted, everyone supported, and everyone loved. We have far more in common than we have differences, and my hope is that more people come to realize this and live in harmony. From cowboy priests and Spanish seminary students to elderly nuns and atheist Irishmen, spirituality appears in countless forms, each unique and beautiful in its own way.
the jen essentials for the camino de santiago.
- See packing list in above “calculated prep” section (this is cheating since it is more than one item, but I make the rules here)
- Snacks (you never know when the next supermarket will be and important to prepare for siesta time. ALSO – important note – supermarkets are closed on Sunday)
- Time to train (I cannot stress enough how important it is to test your attire and more specifically shoes. It saved me from a lot of potential pain and agony)
- Music, podcasts, or books on tape (something to keep you entertained for hours on end)
- Walking companions (Find people who you can talk to for hours, never get bored, where no topic is off-limits, and who support you through both the highs and lows)
- Rain gear (especially if you are going in fall – rain is guaranteed)
- Laundry soap and desire to wash your own clothes in the sink (unless you like wearing dirty clothes – many albergues don’t offer laundry service)
- Resilience (no explanation needed)
- YOGA (did you really think this wasn’t going to make the list? DUH)
- An open mind (the way will show you and teach you what you need, but you need to be open to its lessons)
wrap it up jen.
Summing up this experience is difficult (though I’ve tried my best here). It’s something you truly have to experience for yourself. If you’re physically able and have the time, I would recommend walking the Camino a thousand times over. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done, but also one of the most beautiful.
Everything on the Camino Frances is well organized, set up for one to worry less and focus on the walk. There are stores and pharmacies selling all things related to foot care. There are signs of arrows pointing you to the right path through every twist and turn. There are albergues spread out for any desired distance (the longest stretch without an albergue is 15km or 9 miles). There are fellow pilgrims on the trail during the busy months (June-October) to keep one company and create a feeling of security. There are friendly locals running bars, restaurants, and lodging, ready to answer any question you might have. There is stunning scenery and beauty everywhere you look. There is a profound sense of accomplishment waiting at the end of each day. There are countless stories to be told and memories to be had. There is so much joy and pain all wrapped into one adventure.
As briefly mentioned, every time you pass someone on the trail, it’s customary to say “Buen Camino”— which directly translates to “good walk/path/way,” or more grammatically, “have a good journey.” I wouldn’t be surprised if I said and heard this more than 5,000 times. I’d look the person in the eye, smile, and wish them well with a heartfelt “Buen Camino.” Over time, it became a source of comfort and familiarity, a simple gesture that connected us all on this shared journey.
Another popular theme throughout the journey is “the way always provides”. El Camino in Spanish translates to the way. Whatever you need, you will find it along the way. Many people walk the Camino for religious reasons. And based on the number of cathedrals and churches I passed; I can see why. Some people walk it for health and physical reasons. Based on the incredible endurance needed to complete the journey; I can see why. Others walk it for personal reasons. Maybe after a breakup, divorce or death to help grieve and heal emotionally. Based on the amount of free time and mental space you have while walking, I can see why. Some people walk the Camino for an adventure and new experience. Based on the variety of challenges and unknown situations I encountered; I can see why.
Whatever your reason, whatever your situation, whatever your age, whatever your gender, whatever your status, the Camino will provide. It may not be what you wanted or planned. It may not be what you thought it was going to be. It may not be how you imagined, but I guarantee you will find your WAY through it.
For me personally, I wanted to walk the Camino for several reasons. During my time back in the US, it affirmed for me that I am not supposed to be right there now. So that begs the question – where am I supposed to be? SOOO, I wanted to set out on a quest to figure that out. I am looking for direction for my life. I thought the Camino could point me the right WAY. The second reason is that I love a good challenge. Walk 600 miles across a country…sure, why not? And lastly, I am on a new spiritual journey. My Christian upbringing doesn’t resonate as much as it used to. My yogic studies taught me there is a whole big world of spirituality I know little about, and my world travels opened my eyes to so many diverse religions and beliefs.
I proved to myself that I can do anything I put my mind to, the body is a resilient and beautiful thing, and my journey is not over. I am exactly where I am supposed to be right now…On the road with my backpack, meeting new and incredible people, and paving my own way. I may be alone on my journey, but I am not alone in my pursuit of finding my place in this world.
I hope I’ve been able to convey the intensity and depth of the Camino. It is truly a profound and beautiful experience. What’s even more beautiful is that it looks different for everyone. Along the way, I met many people who had walked it multiple times – one older gentleman had done it 15 times!! Each journey was unique, never quite the same as the others. On my last day, Ellen, Mauro and I got Camino tattoos (sorry mom) to mark an incredible feat. Also a symbol for others that see it and know the significance – a great way to strike up a beautiful conversation about each other’s journey. It has already happened twice since completing it in October!
Lastly, this will not be the only Camino I walk, of that I’m certain. And I am excited to see the WAY it will direct me.
Until next time,
Jennifer