small but mighty country.
It was sad to say goodbye to Spain, I had an incredible time and explored unknown places. Now it was time to head back to America. Latin America that is. I decided to start in the southeast, skipping over Ushuaia, Argentina (the very southern tip) due to the cost and sheer distance to get there) and work my way up. First stop, Uruguay. A tiny country, with so much to offer. Let me explain.
Uruguay is known for its high quality of life, progressive policies, and rich cultural heritage. It boasts stunning beaches like Punta del Este and unique towns like Cabo Polonio, which cannot be missed. In the summer months, Brazilians and Argentinians flock to the beautiful coastline for a relaxing vacation and a lively night scene.
There is a strong asado, or barbecue, tradition because the country has more cows than people. On top of that, Uruguay consumes the most mate per capita. For those of you that don’t know, mate (also known as yerba mate) is a caffeinated herbal infusion made from the leaves of a specific tree native to South America. Uruguay has the highest consumption per person. On average, Uruguayans consume 8 -10 kg (17 – 22 lbs) of yerba mate per person per year, and it’s common to see people carrying a thermos and mate gourd everywhere they go. I learned there is an art and science to drinking mate. I won’t get into the details, but let’s just say…there are many rules. Just ask someone from Argentina or Uruguay. They will be happy to share this tradition with anyone who asks.
Uruguay is often called the “Switzerland of South America,” it is politically stable, safe, and economically strong. They are the only South American country with legalized marijuana and same-sex marriage with a strong current economy.
Montevideo, the capital, can be reached by a fast ferry from Buenos Aires, Argentina and therefore is a popular destination for a quick weekend getaway. However, tourism from other parts of the world has not quite picked up yet. I met maybe four other Americans and a few Europeans in the month I was there. This might be because it is one of the most expensive countries in South America, or its richness has not yet been discovered. This blog will hopefully persuade others to visit!
stop 1
After a LONG and exhausting flight from Madrid, I made it to Montevideo. I booked a private room in a pension (like a big house with shared kitchen and bathroom) so I could sleep off my jetlag in peace and much needed privacy. Also, it was less than $20 a night. Coming from Spain, I was used to spending more than that for a dorm room with 10 other people. Luxury!
As usual, I booked a walking tour for the next day…a great way to get to know the city, gather recommendations, and possibly connect with fellow travelers. The guide was fantastic. One of the best I’ve had. He was not only hilarious but also insightful, sharing key historical context, shaping the country’s past, present, and future.
I met three lovely travelers on the tour (success!!) and we continued with a self-guided walking tour based on the guide’s recommendations. We stopped by the Museo de Artes Decorativas (a beautiful old mansion turned into a museum), El Cabildo (another art museum), then made our way down the Avenida 18 de Julio (the main street through the city) until we made it to the Intendencia de Montevideo with a free rooftop overlooking the city.
That evening there was a VERY important soccer match between Uruguay and Brazil. Our tour guide sent us a few local bars to get a true experience during a game. The four of us met back up in the evening to secure a table next to the TV where we tried to blend in. Unfortunately, it ended in a draw, but we had a great time sharing some local Uruguayan pizza called Fainá made without sauce and a chickpea crust accompanied with ice-cold beer. We made plans the next day to continue our tour of Montevideo landmarks.
The following morning, we met up at the Teatro Solís for a free tour. It is the country’s most significant and renowned theater. It was inaugured in 1856 and stands as one of the oldest theaters in South America. The theater was named in honor of the explorer Juan Díaz de Solís, the first European to arrive in present-day Uruguay. The beauty of the architecture and details speak for themselves. I eagerly signed up for a dance show that evening, securing the last ticket available!
Ravenous, we grabbed lunch at a restaurant on the pedestrian only street in the historic district. I ordered pascualina, a popular dish in Uruguay and Argentina and similar to quiche. We watched the sunset along the rambla in Parque Argentina, battling the wind and enjoying each other’s company. I ended the evening attending a VERY interesting contemporary dance show at the Solís theatre, one I was not expecting and will likely never forget. I walked home along the busy street of Avenida de Julio with a smile on my face, ready to continue my journey along the coast.
the miami of uruguay.
Next stop on my Uruguay tour: Punta del Este. What I hadn’t realized was that peak season (when thousands of visitor’s flock to Uruguay’s beaches) kicks off right after Christmas. I arrived about a month early in late November, which was both a blessing and a curse. On the plus side, everything was cheaper and far less crowded. On the downside, many bars and restaurants hadn’t opened yet, and the hostels were nearly empty. I booked several nights at one, only to find myself sharing the space with one French girl and about 25 Argentinians, all gearing up to work for the busy season. Not a bad experience, just an unexpected one!
Punta del Este is known as the “Miami of South America” because of its glamorous beaches, luxury lifestyle, and vibrant nightlife (during busy season that is). There are exclusive yachts, private resorts, and luxury real estate attract the wealthy from Argentina, Brazil, and beyond. Expensive high-rise condos and hotels line the coast, giving it a Miami-style skyline, with many celebrities vacationing and hosting summer parties and events. I, unfortunately, did not see any celebrities…not that I would recognize any of them if I did.
On my first day, I took a walking tour of the city. Unsurprisingly, I was the only attendee. Fortunately, I hit it off with my guide, German, a Uruguay native who spent 10 years in the U.S. as a child and spoke perfect English. After an insightful tour, we headed to his favorite restaurant for lunch, where I tried Uruguay’s most iconic sandwich…the chivito. This meat-lover’s dream is loaded with steak, melted cheese, ham, a fried egg, lettuce, tomato, and mayo on a soft roll. Essentially a heart attack on a plate. Probably why it is SO GOOD. It’s massive, enough for two meals, and served with a generous portion of fries. Am I in America?
Valentine, the French gal in my hostel, and I visited the Ralli Museum, the first of five Ralli Museums worldwide and houses one of the most significant collections of contemporary Latin American art. I taught a yoga class for a group of women from the hostel in a nearby park, a routine experience for me, except for one major first…I taught it entirely in Spanish! It was a bit rocky, but I made it through, and with more practice, I knew this skill would open new doors for me throughout my travels.
While I didn’t experience the thriving nightlife consisting of casinos, rooftop bars, and beach clubs that host wild parties, each night I walked to Playa Mansa to read while enjoying the sunset. The sunsets were incredible (in which I apologize for the ridiculous amount of photos of sunsets in the gallery, but they are just too beautiful not to share) with shades of red, orange, and yellow scanning the sky.
My time in the city was both memorable and rewarding. I formed lasting friendships (foreshadowing), embraced a more local hostel experience, and soaked in some truly breathtaking sunsets. See below for proof.
jose ignacio.
Continuing my journey east along the coast, I took a short bus ride to José Ignacio. Luckily, with it being low-season, I scored an incredible hostel for half the price at Wanderlust Jose Ignacio. I ended up staying for a week and a half, and it felt like pure luxury. This tiny beach town has just two supermarkets, a handful of upscale restaurants, and a reputation for celebrity sightings among those who own beachfront properties. Again…didn’t see anyone famous. With rapid development underway, I have a feeling that in ten years, José Ignacio will be a much busier place.
The beach stretches for miles, offering stunning sunsets every evening. I spent hours walking along the shore and discovered a secluded spot with an old wooden platform, perfect for long yoga sessions. Along the way, I met Ary from Turkey and formed a great friendship with Estefenia from Venezuela. The highlight of my stay was teaching a yoga class on the beach, where I had the privilege of guiding Ary through his very first yoga session!
I spent Thanksgiving in José Ignacio. Knowing turkey would be impossible to find, I improvised. The local market had chicken, instant mashed potatoes, bread, and canned creamed corn. Not traditional, but it would do. Ary grilled the chicken on the asado while Estefania and I prepared the sides. That evening, we toasted to what we were grateful for. Neither of them had celebrated Thanksgiving before, and while it wasn’t quite the full experience, I was grateful to share the tradition with new friends.
hippies.
I met a traveler back in Punta del Este that told me about Cabo Polonio. Cabo Polonio is a remote, off-the-grid coastal village, known for its rugged beauty, lack of electricity (AKA WiFi), and bohemian atmosphere. It sits within a protected national park and can only be accessed by special 4×4 trucks that cross massive sand dunes. After a long day of travel, I made it just before sundown.
There are a handful of hostels and rental properties in town, and I chose the oldest hostel, Viejo Lobo, based on great reviews and it’s chill environment. The village is self-governed. It runs on solar power and they have their own garbage service. Beaches are lined with soft beautiful white sand and crystal blue waters. Perfect for morning yoga sessions. It is a much slower pace of life, with hammocks everywhere and large rock cliffs to enjoy the sunset each night. There is a Loberia, or sea lion preserve, at the tip of the peninsula with hundreds of lazy sunbathing sea lions (which look like little dots captured in the picture below). You can also walk up the lighthouse for a 360 view of the village and coastline for just $2. STUNNING!
I had a wonderful three days with the slower pace of life, walking the beach each day for hours, reading in the hammock, star gazing, and enjoying the natural surrounding beauty without minimal man-made interruptions. This is my favorite place in Uruguay. It is unique, beautiful, and instantly gave me a sense of calm.
changing it up.
This time around, I set a goal to volunteer in every country I visit. There are two main platforms for finding volunteer opportunities while traveling, Workaway and Worldpackers, where hostels, farms, and cultural exchange programs post openings for interested travelers like me. Both require a small annual fee, but they offer filters for location, type of work, availability, spoken languages, to find the perfect volunteer role. To maximize my chances of finding great opportunities, I signed up for both. My first assignment: an ecological home in La Pedrera, Uruguay.
The host, Alicia, reached out to me through the Workaway platform to see if I was interested in helping around her property. She owns a large piece of land on an eco-reserve just outside the small beach town along the eastern coast. I agreed to it, because why not? I originally planned to stay for 8 days but ended up staying 2 weeks and what an experience it turned out to be!
Alicia and her partner have a large property with three livable homes, a huge garden, two lively dogs, and lots and lots of stuff. Alicia, a former metal artist, used to create unique sculptures and pieces from scrap metal. Her artwork is displayed throughout the house and property. Honestly, it’s hard to put into words just how unique this place is, but I’ll do my best to describe it.
Alicia is a nice woman…but rather strange and incredible moody. She does not throw anything out. NOTHING. Everything is repurposed. If curtains are old, she turns them into table clothes. If a hanger breaks, she turns it into something to hang on the wall. If tires are flat, she turns them into planters. If a tree falls, she uses the wood to make a walkway (to nowhere I may add). She is very conscientious about reducing, reusing, and recycling. It rings true in every part of her life. While I admire her dedication, I like to refer to this lifestyle as hoarding. I tried to capture the essence in photos, but it just doesn’t do it justice. See the GALLERY tab to see for yourself.
My tasks mainly involved painting…and a lot of it. I stained wood on the exterior of the house, repainted a hallway, and worked on various small objects (mostly her old metal sculptures that had rusted over time). My job was to paint over the rust, and she would then nail them to fences around the property. I also helped with some light cleaning and yardwork. I worked four hours a day, typically in the mornings, leaving my afternoons free to explore the area. The beach was the main attraction, with not much else around. A 40-minute walk took me to the town of La Pedrera, where there were a few markets, restaurants, and shops. We also took the car to another nearby town, La Paloma, to visit the larger supermarket and see the unique rocky coastline.
Alicia has been hosting volunteers in her home for years. There’s a small room with two twin beds in the main house where we stayed. At first, I was alone, then a volunteer from South Africa arrived, but she didn’t get along with Alicia and left after a few days. Next came Fabio, a young Italian, and we hit it off right away. His energy was infectious, and it was nice to have someone to gossip with about the quirky dynamics of the place. I had the pleasure of teaching both Fabio and Alicia a yoga class (in Spanish, again), walked the dogs to the beach each day, and shared dinner with Fabio every evening.
Unfortunately, towards the end of my time there, Alicia and I were not seeing eye to eye. She would often find things to knit pick, telling me I was not working fast enough or doing something right. At that point, I knew it was time to go. It was becoming more stressful than enjoyable. Nonetheless, I finished the agreed upon stay and gratefully said my goodbyes.
Overall, it was a peculiar experience. Many of the projects didn’t seem particularly useful to me, but to Alicia, they mattered. In the end, I saved a ton of money, spending almost nothing over the two weeks, and gained my first volunteer experience. Looking ahead, I hoped to find my next opportunity in a hostel, a setting I know extremely well. I won’t let this experience define volunteer exchanges for me. Instead, it was just one unique stop along the way.
rinse and repeat.
German, the tour guide in Punta del Este and I kept in contact after I left. He has been hosting couchsurfing guests for years and we chatted about me coming back at the tail of my trip to stay on his couch. For those of you that don’t know what couchsurfing is, locals open up their homes to travelers to stay on their couch (or spare bedroom if you are lucky enough) for free. Sort of like a cultural exchange, sharing stories, meals, and securing your own personal local guide.
This was my first time couchsurfing. German was so kind to open his home in Maldonado to me. He cooked for me, we drank wine and talked for hours about the philosophy of life. I spent the mornings working, the afternoons on the beach, and the evenings conversing. It was a lovely experience and opened my eyes to a world of possibilities on couches during the rest of my travels.
I said goodbye to German and headed one last time to Montevideo to see Estefania, the gal I met in Jose Ignacio. She lives and works in the capital and we planned to meet back up and paint the town red. We went to a popular nightclub until wee hours of the morning dancing and chatting about life. The following day we went to the movies to see the new Wicked musical (SO GOOD IF YOU HAVENT SEEN IT YET, Ariana Grande is amazing) with a giant popcorn and soda in hand. I cannot tell you the last time I went to a movie. It was exactly what I needed. Estefania and I got along so great, laughing about our similarities and differences. A kindred spirit that I know I will see again.
last stop.
Colonia del Sacramento is a colonial town on the Rio de la Plata with a blend of Portuguese and Spanish influences just across the way from Buenos Aires. The Barrio Histórico (Historic Quarter) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its well-preserved colonial architecture and rich history dating back to 1680.
I had one full day to walk the Rambla de Colonia (waterfront promenade), stroll through the cobblestone, treelined streets, and rest on the coastal benches and pier. I admired the city gate and wooden drawbridge, the vintage lighthouse, and the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento (one of Uruguay’s oldest churches). While I was there, a local candombe, a traditional Afro-Uruguayan music and dance style that originated in Montevideo, was parading through the streets with dancers and many spectators following in its path. A true Uruguayan experience!
the jen essentials for uruguay.
- Sunset yoga (this is number one this time because I did a lot of yoga in Uruguay)
- Spanish speaking skills (Alicia did not speak English and Uruguayans have a unique way of speaking)
- New friends to share a Thanksgiving meal with (this is a hard holiday to be away from family, but I am glad I had new friends to spend it with)
- Patience (buses do not run on schedule, and I may have missed one or two…)
- Painting clothes (this is only if you plan to volunteer to paint iron sculptures, which I would not recommend)
- Chivitos (a must try – que rico)
- Long walks on the beach (the best way I know how to enjoy a beautiful sunset)
- Downtime (every traveler needs some days to do nothing, traveling can be exhausting…don’t roll your eyes at me)
- Small speaker (this would have been handy when teaching yoga in the park or beach. Don’t worry, I ordered one to be hand delivered by friends in the coming weeks)
- An open mind (Uruguay is less touristy with smaller less-developed cities)
wrap it up jen.
It’s been nine years since I have been to South America (I had to go through my pictures to figure this out and wow how time flies), and I was excited to spend more time engulfed in the rich beauty and culture. One where I feel at home. Last time I was here, it was a 2-week vacation to the capitals of Chile, Argentina, and Brazil. This time around was different. I had unlimited time and the luxury of taking my time getting from point A to B.
When you think of South America, Uruguay is likely not the first country that comes to mind. It is tiny compared to its neighbors of Brazil and Argentina. But don’t let its size fool you. It has a lot to offer. Most people skip right over it, but I would absolutely recommend visiting. From the hundreds of miles of beaches to the remote countryside to the open-minded culture, it is filled with goodness. Not to mention, the travel infrastructure (comfortable buses and plenty of hostels) is set up to enable stress-free experiences.
As previously mentioned, I decided to start my South American adventures in the SURESTE, meaning southeast, and work my way north through the continent. I didn’t have it all my plans worked out yet, but this much I knew. After a few busy months in Spain, it was exactly what I needed. Beach, relaxation, yoga, and an unfamiliar culture to get to know. I hope to be back soon!
Up next: Argentina and visitors from the US!
Until next time,
Jennifer