where do I start?
Every time I start a new blog post, I stare at a blank page for a good while. Reminiscing about my time in the respective country (with a giant smile on my face). Thinking about puns for the title (I take this very seriously). Wondering what to share and what to omit (otherwise these posts would be novels and nobody wants that). And most of all where to start. It’s difficult to start something, but after you get over the hump, it becomes easier. Like jumping out of an airplane, or getting in a really hot tub, or going on a first date, or starting a new job, or visiting an unfamiliar place.
During a recent conversation with my brother, he mentioned how the idea of change was stressing him out. It made me realize just how much my own life revolves around change. Nearly every day brings something new (on average, I change locations or hostels every four days). I’m constantly meeting new people, and my perspectives are always being challenged and reshaped. Change isn’t just a part of my life…it is my life. Argentina was no exception. I experienced a lot of change there too, but this time, it felt different and in the best way possible!!
capital federal.
I arrived in Buenos Aires by ferry from Uruguay in the late afternoon. I waited for an hour at the ferry terminal after multiple Ubers kept canceling on me. Turns out the terminal is near to a more dangerous neighborhood and drivers don’t want to risk anything. Thankfully, the security police escorted me to a different area of the station where I got picked up swiftly.
I stayed at Malevo Murana hostel in Palermo, a hip and safe neighborhood of BA. If you are a loyal reader, you know what I did on day 1. Walking tour. BA is a huge city with 3.1 million people in the city proper and 16 million in the surrounding areas. The city has rich European roots and an interesting history, a lot of which I do not remember. We started at the Plaza Lavelle in front of the Teatro Colon, walked through the Retiro neighborhood filled with mansions, churches, and beautiful parks. We made our way across Avenida 9 de Julio, renowned as the widest avenue in the world. This monumental thoroughfare spans approximately 140 meters in width and features up to 16 lanes of traffic. Honestly my worst nightmare – car trauma is a real thing! We ended the tour in Recoleta area, with the enormous and stunning cemetery known for their famous burials such as Eva Peron, or Evita (Argentina’s beloved First Lady).
Back at the hostel, I met Kevin, an Irish guy currently living in Colombia. He is a musician and had a local gig at a divey bar nearby that evening. Did I invite myself to his show? Yes. Were all the performers very talented? Yes. Did I have a great time? Yes. Did I then attend another gig the following night that his friend was performing at? Yes.
I strolled through the ecoparque, a18-hectare ecological park located in the Palermo neighborhood, transformed from the city’s former zoo into a space focused on conservation, education, and recreation. I went to Rapanui for some of the best ice cream I’ve had in my life. Thank you Carly for the recommendation!!! I spent Sunday morning with two new friends at the San Telmo market, a handcraft giant fair with thousands of vendors selling their artwork. We visited the Museo de Arte Moderno and admired the unique work. Enzo, an Argentinian at my hostel, took me to a very local spot for traditional Argentinian asado at Lo de Charly. Delicious. As if we were full enough, we went for ice cream at an old school Italian ice cream place in San Isidro called Via Flaminia. A very unique experience and a massive amount of ice cream. We walked it off at Parque Vicente Lopez, a perfect way to end an eventful day.
La Bomba de Tiempo, a renowned percussion ensemble that performs every Monday night at Ciudad Cultural Konex in Buenos Aires is packed with locals and tourists alike. So naturally, I bought my ticket in advance and made my way there to be greeted with a line around an entire block. Luckily there are vendors eagerly selling drinks and food to those waiting in line. Enzo joined me and I ran into Valentine, the French girl I met in Punta del Este. We danced the night away, ending at a nearby disco after the performance and empanadas before calling it a night.
The next morning was Christmas Eve, though it hardly felt like it. The summer heat and the distance from my family made it feel worlds away from the holidays I was used to. In Argentina, Christmas Eve is actually the bigger celebration, the city buzzes with families and friends gathering in the streets, while most shops and restaurants are closed for the night. Fireworks crackled across the sky in every direction. The largest display lights up Puerto Madero at midnight, well past my usual bedtime, but Enzo and I made our way there anyway. Along the way, we grabbed choripán, a delicious chorizo sandwich, from a street vendor. Puerto Madero was alive with visitors toasting with wine and champagne, the whole evening feeling more like a New Year’s Eve party than Christmas. Nonetheless, it was a beautiful, unforgettable night.
Although being away from my family during the holiday was bittersweet, I knew I wouldn’t be alone. In fact, I had received the best Christmas gift I could’ve asked for…my two closest friends, Jewel and Ryan from Seattle, were on their way to Buenos Aires to join me for three incredible weeks!
familiarity.
I began my travel story in January 2023 with Jewel and Ryan in the Chilean Patagonia region. These are the types of friends that love to travel and will jump at any opportunity to visit new countries and more specifically ME! Christmas morning I welcomed them to BA. They did not come empty handed! Santa (AKA as Jewel and Ryan) brought me goldfish crackers, Trader Joe’s snacks, Reese’s peanut butter cups, and some small things I cannot get in South America (my Organix hair cream and Blistex ChapStick for example – THESE ARE ESSENTIALS).
What we didn’t anticipate was how quiet Christmas Day would be in Buenos Aires. The city felt like a ghost town, with nearly everything shut down. We wandered the streets for a while, hoping to find a restaurant open for lunch. Our Airbnb was in the Recoleta neighborhood, so we ended up at a tourist trap near the famous cemetery. The food was disappointing, to say the least. It wasn’t the best start to their trip, but at least things could only improve from there, right?
The rest of the afternoon we wandered. We leisurely explored the Plaza de Mayo, Puerto Madero, Plaza de la Republica, and Plaza Lavalle enjoying the quiet streets and beautiful weather. It was a very different Christmas to what I am used to, but being there with Jewel and Ryan brought familiarity and joy.
With a few more days to explore BA, we packed it all in. We strolled through Jardin Japones, made our own empanada tour – visiting six different restaurants and comparing empanada taste and quality, we attended a Tango show at El Querandi Theater. We did a bike tour of the south areas of the city including San Telmo, La Boca, and Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur. On our walk home we stopped at the San Telmo food market for lunch and El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a huge and popular bookstore.
a quick detour back to uruguay.
Jewel and Ryan were eager to explore Uruguay for a few days, so we planned a quick trip to Colonia de Sacramento, taking the fast ferry, followed by a bus to Montevideo. Having already visited both places, I was excited to play the role of tour guide. We caught the early ferry, giving us a full day to explore Colonia before catching a three-hour bus ride to Montevideo in the afternoon. Our first stop was a local restaurant for a chivito. If you read my previous blog, you’ll know this popular sandwich is packed with meat, cheese, eggs, and all the fixings. Unfortunately for Jewel and Ryan, who are vegetarians (and as we would soon discover, this is a bit challenging in a region where asados, or BBQs, reign supreme), we made sure to pick a spot with suitable vegetarian options. They got their veggie fix, and our bellies were grateful.
We walked around the small historic center, visiting all the main tourist spots. The best part of the afternoon was renting a golf cart that looked like an old timey car for an hour. We zoomed around (going a max of 35 miles an hour!!!) and rode to the Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos, an old bullfighting ring. This historic bullring was built in 1907 but has not been used for bullfights since the 1910s. Today, it’s a popular tourist attraction, offering a glimpse into the past and showcasing the unique architectural style of the time.
We made our way to Montevideo and settled in Pocitos, a charming neighborhood east of Parque Rodó and right along the beach. The next day, we strolled along the Rambla towards the historic center of the city. We enjoyed lunch at a cozy outdoor café, passed through Independencia Plaza, and caught a breathtaking sunset near the iconic Montevideo sign. We also wandered through the December fair, browsing the local vendors set up along the edge of the park. Later, we met up with Estefanía, whom I had connected with in José Ignacio last month, and shared a wonderful meal together. My third visit to Montevideo was just as memorable as the first.
iguazu.
Iguazu Falls are located at the conjuncture of Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay. This natural phenomenon reaches extraordinary heights and is a place that cannot be missed. It is one of the largest and most powerful waterfall systems, with a height of around 80 meters (262 feet). It consists of approximately 275 individual falls spread out over nearly 2 kilometers (1.25 miles), making it one of the most spectacular and expansive waterfall systems globally. We flew into the Argentina side and stayed in Puerto Iguazu. The falls can be viewed from two sides, entering the park in Argentina or Brazil. We planned one full day for each side, starting with Argentina.
We got an early start and arrived at the UNESCO World Heritage park when it opened. Unfortunately, our excitement quickly turned to frustration. Apparently, the computer and credit card machines are extremely ancient and broken that day. The only credit card that was working was American Express. Do people even have AmEx anymore? Among the three of us, no one owned a AmEx card. We also didn’t have enough cash to pay for everyone and as you probably guessed, the ATMs were broken. Perfect.
Quick side story – the currency situation in Argentina is very complicated. The country has seen a lot of turmoil recently and while it is improving, it is still a challenge for tourists to withdraw cash. ATMs often do not have money, charge about $13 every withdraw often with a max of $30. The only option for foreigners to get cash is to use a Western Union (with also a steep fee) or bring US dollars to exchange. Since I knew this, I had Jewel and Ryan bring $100 bills (which get the best exchange rate). Cash is king in Argentina and credit cards are not accepted everywhere or charge an additional % to use. If you are planning a trip to Argentina anytime soon, please call me for advice. OK I digress.
Back to my story, after speaking to almost every employee at the welcome center, we got the advice to have someone with an AmEx buy tickets online and text them to us. Jewel’s aunt in NY came through for the win! After two hours, we made it in! The Argentinian side is much larger and has miles of walkways through the falls and a long bridge to the main event of the Devil’s Throat (La Garganta del Diablo). It is the most famous and powerful part of Iguazu Falls, located on the border between Argentina and Brazil. It is a massive U-shaped chasm that is the largest of all the falls in the Iguazu system.We started there. It was one of those moments where you need to pinch yourself to check if this is real life. After fighting through the crowds to get the best selfie with the falls in the back, we stood in awe of the sheer beauty. If you want to see what I am refering to, see the gallery tab – you will not be disappointed.
That day it reached 104 degrees Fahrenheit, making for a very sweaty afternoon. We took a lazy rafting boat ride back through the rivers and continued walking through the many paths of the park. We saw the falls from what felt like every angle. The trail walks above the falls along the entire one side of the parameter with stunning views everywhere you look. We saw dozens of Coatis and Howler Monkeys in the park, all trying to feast off the visitor’s lunch crumbs. At the end of the day, we were sweaty, exhausted, and hungry. It was New Year’s Eve, but none of us made it up till midnight to toast to a new year.
Day 2, we took a local bus to the Brazilian side of the falls. We entered the park within 3 minutes of arrival. A very different experience from the previous day. Apparently, the two sides of the park have different computer systems. Brazil – 1, Argentina – 0.
A park bus took us to the farthest point of the park, allowing us to make our way back toward the entrance. These paths lead you right into the heart of the falls, offering a completely different experience than the Argentine side. While many people claim the Argentine side is superior, I truly enjoyed the Brazilian side. Standing on the final platform, I felt fully immersed in the falls, surrounded by the thundering water and drenched by the mist. It was an unforgettable, magical experience.
Because the Brazilian side is smaller, we had more time and eagerly bought tickets for a speed boat ride into the falls. It was also cheaper than the Argentina side. Ryan and I lucked out and got the front of the boat. I was not ready for what happened next. First off, THERE WERE NO SEATBELTS. We flew over the rapids directly towards the falls not slowing down for anything. I screamed for my life. Clutching my cell phone in one hand (with which I took ZERO PHOTOS because I was too scared) and the side of the boat with the other hand. The driver took us through the falls multiple times, all riders cheering for more. I just closed my eyes and prayed to make it back to dry land safely. We did, obviously. We disembarked, soaking wet with smiles on our faces. A highlight of our trip so far!
patagonia take 2.
Patagonia is a vast, rugged region that stretches across the southern tip of South America. Having already experienced the Chilean side of Patagonia with the W trek, Jewel, Ryan, and I decided to explore a part of the Argentine side, specifically the charming town of Bariloche. Known for its German influences, Bariloche is a popular destination among backpackers and serves as a hub for numerous hikes in the area. For my fellow Seattleites, think of it like the North Cascades National Park, with its crystal-clear lakes, towering mountains, and lush greenery creating breathtaking scenery every turn.
It is common to rent a car to zip around to the different hikes and save time. However, because it was high season, rental car prices were out of our budget. We would take the public bus (line 20) which was crowded and took significantly longer. Day 1 we hiked Cerro Llao Llao, one of the most popular hikes in the area. The hike itself was not too difficult. We took our time, enjoyed the views from the top, and walked until we found a bus stop. Only to find out the bus did not come to that stop in the afternoon. Thank goodness for Uber.
On Day 2, we hiked Cerro Campanario, an easier trek with the option to take a cable car for those who preferred not to hike to the top. Once at the summit, we enjoyed coffee at the restaurant, taking in the stunning views. Afterward, we walked 3 more kilometers to Lago Moreno, where we rented kayaks for an hour. From there, we continued for another 3 kilometers to the renowned Patagonia Brewery. The place was massive, with three spacious patios perfect for savoring a cold, delicious beer. Hungry from our hike, we opted for the restaurant, though the food didn’t quite match the beer, which was absolutely perfect! It was the ideal way to wrap up our second adventure together in Patagonia. Tomorrow, we’d be off to our fourth and final stop on this whirlwind South American tour: Puerto Montt, Chile.
penquins.
Disclaimer: I know this blog is technically about my time in Argentina, but this was a quick side-trip, like Uruguay part 2. I would be back in Argentina in no time. Just keep reading 😊
After a six-hour bus ride, we arrived in Puerto Montt in the early evening. What we didn’t know was that the city itself is not what you would call touristy. We learned that most visitors stay in the nearby town of Puerto Varas. Luckily, we rented a car, since buses in this area were not as straight forward and less frequent, so we had more freedom to explore.
Day 1 we headed to see the Petrohue waterfalls with a beautiful backdrop of the Osorno Volcano. Osorno is an iconic, symmetrical stratovolcano, often compared to Mount Fuji in Japan due to its similar shape. It’s a popular destination for tourists, offering activities such as hiking, skiing in winter, and breathtaking views of the surrounding lakes, including Lake Llanquihue. We walked around the different trails in the park and ate our pack lunch at the lake. All the while we were battlingthe nasty tabanos, or this region’s version of horse flies. They were giant, annoying, and painful. Unfortunately, it cut our time near the lake short. On our journey back, we stopped in Puerto Varas to enjoy the beach, walk through the streets, and find a local restaurant for dinner.
The next day we got an early start to the island of Chiloé Island, known for it’s local penguin sightings and boat tours. After a two-hour drive, 30-minute ferry ride, we made it to Ancud, greeted by rain.Thankfully, the penguin tours were still going out, so we put our lifejackets and ponchos on and endured a little rain to see the beautiful animals. This unique site is the only known place in the world where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest together. The colonies are situated on three small islets off the northwest coast of the Island, near the fishing cove of Puñihuil. After the 30 minute tour, we walked up to the lookout areas, grabbed a bite to eat, and stopped in the city center of Ancud.
On our last day together, we made our way to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino, just a 45-minute drive away, for one final hike. We ventured along different trails, soaking in the beauty and reflecting on the incredible time we had shared. The tabanos were still a challenge, but we made the best of it. As the day drew to a close, it was time to say goodbye (for now). In such a short time, we created so many memories…laughing, complaining, bickering, and growing closer with each passing moment. I’m beyond grateful for these two and even more thankful that they’ve visited me multiple times during my travels. It’s the kind of friendship that makes every journey even more special. While traveling is incredible, I wouldn’t trade it for anything. However, I miss familiarity. Seeing familiar faces, having people around you that REALLY know you, and reminiscing about the past. The intangible. The bond that needs no explaining. Jewel and Ryan gave me the energy during a time when I was missing home and feeling a bit burnt out. If you are reading this Jewel and Ryan – I love you and can’t wait for the next adventure. Thank you for everything!
last, but certainly not least.
After my Uruguay volunteer experience, I knew I wanted to try working in a hostel next. Manual labor just isn’t for me. Ask anyone in my family. Just no. A traveler I met told me about this hostel in Mendoza that was one of the best hostels she’s been to. I immediately messaged them on Instagram to see if they were looking for a volunteer. I was in! We aligned on a date, I arranged travel plans, and I made my way from Puerto Montt to Mendoza via planes, buses, and taxis.
Dale Hostel (https://www.instagram.com/hosteldale/), is a new hostel that opened in late 2024, is owned by Edy and Luca, two Argentinian friends from Cordoba. There are dorms and private rooms, with enough space to house around 55 people. It offers free breakfast, a shared kitchen, a bar with generous happy hour prices, two terraces, and a pool. The pool is essential during summer months, when temperatures reached 105 degrees Fahrenheit (40 Celcius). There are weekly activities to create a sense of community such as BBQ night (best meat I have ever had), karaoke, Pizza night, and many excursions offered at an additional cost.
What sets this hostel apart is its genuinely family-like atmosphere. In the heart of the main courtyard sits a long picnic table that almost encourages you to connect with fellow travelers. The owners, staff, and volunteers, Horacio, Meli, Juli, Karol, Irving, Samuel, and Bruno, quickly became like family to me, each holding a special place in my heart. While the hostel has a lively, party vibe (if that’s what you’re after), it’s never overwhelming…just the perfect amount. I often joked that I was the “mom” of the hostel, always the first to bed and the first to rise. That is, unless we were out enjoying Mendoza’s vibrant nightlife.
As a volunteer, I worked three 8-hour shifts a week at the reception, usually in the afternoons. All the staff at the hostel were native Spanish speakers, with varying levels of English. I received full training and worked entirely in Spanish, which was both challenging and incredibly rewarding for improving my language skills. You could say I learned by fire! During my time there, I noticed a few areas for improvement, including the need for a training manual (thanks, Amazon), English registration forms, and a more centralized system for the offered excursions. Volunteers also helped prep, serve, and clean up during family dinners, creating a warm, collaborative atmosphere. The reputation of the asado/BBQ night (and the bottomless wine) was what brought many travelers to the hostel in the first place. I thoroughly enjoyed connecting with guests from all over the world, some stayed for just a day, others for a week. I made lasting friendships with people from Ireland, the US, England, and Greece.
One of the highlights of my time at Dale was teaching morning yoga classes on the terrace. The rooftop provided a stunning, serene setting, though with limited shade and the sun beating down early, it often turned into a sweaty hot yoga session. I felt honored to lead the first-ever yoga class offered at the hostel! On average, I taught four classes a week, accepting donations, though the money was never my motivation. It was about sharing the joy of yoga and hoping others would fall in love with it just as much as I have.
When I wasn’t working or teaching yoga, I kept very busy. I found cozy coffee shops and terraces to work from. I spent hours reading books under the shade of the trees in Parque San Martin, the largest park in Mendoza. I took a historical walking tour. I went wine tasting (a lot), riding bikes through the vineyards and trying all the different malbecs the Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu, and Valle de Uco wine regions have to offer. My favorite wineries include Bodega Kaiken, Bodega Vistalba, and Bodega Mevi. I spent a day in Potrerillos, a scenic mountain village nestled in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. It’s known for its stunning natural beauty, outdoor adventure opportunities, and as a peaceful retreat from city life. There is a huge reservoir with perfect water temperature to cool off. And make sure to stay for sunset over the mountains.
Carly, whom I met two years ago in Thailand, came to visit me in Mendoza. We rented a car and spent a weekend exploring the neighboring areas of San Rafael, the Nuhuil resevoir, and the Villavicencio National Reserve. We went white water rafting through the Rio Atuel, we stayed at a stunning eco Airbnb on a vineyard and had a picnic overlooking the mountains in Villavicencio region. Mendoza has so much surrounding beauty and I was lucky to experience so much of it.
After six unforgettable weeks in Mendoza, it was time to move on to my next destination. As someone who thrives on change, I felt ready for what was next, but saying goodbye wasn’t easy. I had formed deep connections and made countless memories during my time at the hostel. My experience at Dale was truly special, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone visiting Mendoza. From the incredible team to the perfectly grilled asado, it’s a true gem. As I said my goodbyes, I knew in my heart it wasn’t farewell…it was see you later. I’ll be back.
the jen essentials for argentina.
- Dale Hostel (my favorite hostel around the world)
- The least amount of clothes acceptable for the public (summers in Mendoza valley are brutal)
- Cash (the country runs on cash, so be prepared)
- Hiking boots (that is if you plan to go to Patagonia)
- Some Spanish speaking ability (in the smaller cities, not much English is spoken)
- Coffee (bars stay open until 6am and Argentina knows how to party)
- Wine (What is a trip to Argentina without wine?)
- A good camera (to attempt to capture the beauty of Iguazu and Bariloche)
- Asado (If you are vegetarian in Argentina, I AM SORRY!)
- New and old friends (My time in Argentina would not have been the same without these friendships and memories made together)
wrap it up jen.
Although change often defines my life, Argentina felt different. It wasn’t my first time there, but this visit was more grounded. I spent extended time in both Buenos Aires and Mendoza, settling into a rhythm and establishing a routine. I even started to pick up the nuances of Argentinian Spanish…which, if you know, you know. Most meaningfully, I was reunited with familiar faces. Jewel and Ryan traveled all the way from Seattle, Valentine went out of her way to see me, and Carly, whom I met years ago in Thailand, journeyed from Buenos Aires to join me in Mendoza.
A UNION can be defined as the act of coming together or the state of being joined as one. In Spanish, reunión means meeting, a beautiful reminder of connection. I feel incredibly lucky to have friends in my life who will meet me wherever I am in the world, and to have crossed paths with so many remarkable people along the way. The love and support of these friendships fuel me, especially during the harder moments that come with a life full of constant change.
Up next: Carnaval in none other than Brazil!!
Until next time,
Jennifer