A country different from the others.
After visiting five countries in SE Asia, I thought I knew what I was getting myself into when heading to Malaysia. Boy was I wrong. Malaysia is a blend of so many different cultures and religions. It is a mix of Indian, Chinese, Indonesian, Malaysian, and Middle Eastern backgrounds. It is quite conservative because of the Hindu and Muslim religions therefore it is VERY difficult to find alcohol (most restaurants do not sell it) and it is important to respect the culture with covering your shoulders and knees. Most women are wearing head scarves and long dresses – how they do it in that heat is beyond me. There are temples and mosques on every corner and five times a day you can hear Islamic prayers on the loud speakers, including extremely early in the morning…like 4:30am (so bring your earplugs). With this unique blend comes a variety of tasty food, which I will get to a bit later in this post because it is quite incredible.
Like it’s neighboring countries, Malaysia offers big cities, rural mountains, and interesting islands. I obviously wanted to see all sides of the country starting with Kuala Lumpur. You likely have seen many photos of the iconic Petronas towers (exhibit A above and many more found in pics here). I started my Malaysian journey, not only because most flights have a stop over here first, but also to better integrate to the new country.
City exploration.
Kuala Lumpur (KL For short) is the finance and economic capital of Malaysia. There are a surprising number of expats working here because most large corporations have an office in the city. I found a popular hostel located in the heart of Chinatown where I would hopefully meet some friends to explore with. KL has a wonderful metro system, so I took the train from the airport and arrived before check-in time. I found a local café nearby for lunch and did some research on things to do while there. I found an evening yoga class (go figure) in the park in front of the towers and opted to walk there (45 minutes) to explore. The yoga class was great with so many friendly locals. I went to bed quite early to get ready for my free walking tour in the morning (one of the best things to do in a big city – use https://www.guruwalk.com/ to locate a tour in almost any city around the world!).
I met up with the six other tourists and our local guide Hakim to begin our tour to many different sites around the city. Hakim was Malaysian born but has lived in many different countries working as a tour guide everywhere. He was full of energy, and you could tell how much he knew about the history of the city. We visited the River of Life, the Central Market to buy any souvenir you can think of, Chinatown for street art and cheap goods, stopped at a local café to try the typical milk tea that is drank with a straw out of a plastic bag (I got the rose tea), then made our way to the Petronas Towers. We decided to have lunch together in the mall food hall and I got the local dish of Nasi Lemak with Padang beef. It was delicious. The tour was unfortunately over and we separated ways. I walked to get some Starbucks (it’s a comfort thing – if you travel a long time you know…) and then headed to the top of the KL tower. I paid the obnoxious price of $25 to go up to the top floor with two different glass bottom overhangs for some great photo ops. Back at the hostel I met a German gal, Doro, and we headed to get some noodle soup across the way from the hostel at a very local spot. We had no idea what we were ordering, but it ended up being so tasty!
The next day Doro and I planned to do a hike about an hour outside of the city in Templer Park to see the Kanching Waterfall. Another German guy, Leon, I met during the walking tour came along and we left to get an early start before the heat kicked in. The trail was quite overgrown and difficult to find at times. It was beautiful nonetheless, with a view of the city at the top and a waterfall followed the entire trail back down. We stopped to take a dip and wash the sweat off, it was cold but refreshing. We made a pit stop at the Batu Cave, a popular temple in a cave with colorful steps on the way up. It reminded me of the famous steps in Rio de Janeiro. We caught the end of the sunset at Helipad Bar (which is not really a helipad turns out) that had a 360-degree view of the city and had a mini photo shoot, because why not – we are tourists after all. Once it was dark and our hunger kicked in we headed to get some Indian food nearby. Most of us got the traditional banana leaf chicken rice dish that you are supposed to eat with your hands. I opted for a fork. Don’t judge me.
We need to talk about the food.
Penang, or Georgetown, is best known for its food. This was my next stop on my Malaysian tour. I took a 4-hour train from KL, sure beats a bus that is always unpredictable. It drops you off right at the ferry terminal and after a quick 20-minute ferry ride I arrived to Georgetown Island. Don’t be confused, this island is not known for its beaches, but for its unique architecture, amazing food, and street art. I checked into my hostel and immediately went to find food. One of the common dishes is Char Koay Teow or stir-fried flat rice noodles coming from south China. I found a very small food stall that has won some awards on Chulia street, and it DID NOT DISAPPOINT.
The next day I woke up to do some yoga on the terrace and after walked around to see the creative and popular street art. The city is filled with small side streets with different artistry and many Instagram worthy shots. I made my way to Chew Jetty, or a village on the water with many shops and local homes. I tried some durian ice cream, which was (no offense to the locals) disgusting. Durian is a popular SE Asian fruit that smells and tastes very particular, words can’t even describe it. There are signs in the hostels of durians crossed out because they do not allow them, so that should tell you everything you need to know about the smell. I love ice cream and unfortunately had to throw it out. I headed to the huge food stall across the street to get a sizzling rice bowl with beef. I headed back after a quick rainstorm passed only to eat again. However, this time I needed a bit of western food and got some Mexican chicken enchiladas to satisfy my craving.
Now apart from the amazing flavorful food, the sunsets in Penang are incredible. Bright orange and red. I headed to the boardwalk and Fort Cornwallis area. The next morning, I found a hike on AllTrails to Penang Hill. If you are lazy, you can take the cable car up to the top, but that is not me. After an hour of stairs (yes you heard me right) I looked like I jumped in a pool. I made it to the top only to be greeted by a cloudy view of the city. Whomp whomp. There was an hour wait down for the cable car, so I sucked it up and headed back down the same way I came. Sorry knees. I walked over to Kek Lok Si Temple. This was honestly one of my favorite temples I have seen thus far. I spent a long time taking in the beauty and exploring the many different shrines and pagodas. There were rows and rows of gold statues/Gods, colors in every shade, and views for days as the compound was nestled on a hill. After a long hike in Seattle, I always treat myself to a beer and a burger, so I went on a search for a Malaysian style burger. I found a food stall serving burgers to satisfy my craving. Was it the best burger I have ever had? No, but it was tasty. I walked to the Little India to get a samosa that I read about in a woman’s memoir about backpacking through SE Asia. It was everything and more.
On my last day in Georgetown, there was a Sunday market in an old bus station that sells all kinds of food and local artists set up booths to sell their handmade goods. There was also a band and tattoo shops tattooing people right there (the line was too long otherwise I probably would have gotten another one). I got a shrimp hand roll (like a Vietnamese spring roll) and a traditional dish called lakso with coconut cream soup, rice noodles, white fish, and onions. SO GOOD. I ran into Selina, a fellow backpacker I met in Thailand, and we caught up on our travels over more amazing food (duh). I got an oyster omelet as my appetizer (while it sounds gross, trust me when I tell you whatever they put in that goodness just melts in your mouth leaving you wanting more). Selina is a vegetarian so next we had some spicy vegan chicken sandwiches. We topped off the evening with some gin and tonics and found one of the only late-night bars to dance the night away. I was ready for change, but not ready to leave the amazing food scene.
Don’t rain on my parade.
Langkawi is made of up about 100 islands in the northwest corner of Malaysia near the Thailand border. Most of the islands are uninhabited, but the main island is quite large and a main tourist destination for Malaysia. I flew directly to the island for only $25 and made friends immediately with the women in my hostel dorm. Catarina from Portugal and I decided to visit a beach about 45 minutes from the main area of Cenang as the beach was supposed to be more remote and beautiful. We stayed until the beautiful sunset was over. The next morning two other ladies I met (Vicky from Ireland and Emma from France) made our way to check out the Langkawi Sky Bridge, which is the most popular tourist attraction on the island. It is one of the longest suspension bridges in the world standing about 100 meters above the ground. We bought the pricey tickets ($18) for the cable car up to the top and on the way up through the dense forests of Mount Manchinchang we were greeted by huge dense clouds and rain. They closed the skybridge due to dangerous weather conditions and we waited for an hour to see if the rain would blow over. NOPE. We asked if we could get our money back only to be told no…we were frustrated but wanted to make the most of our time there and our ticket got us entry into a few other touristy activities in the geo-themed amusement park like a 3D museum, weird dinosaur ride and a planetarium movie thing. They were all very interesting, but something to do while the rain kept on.
To my dismay, the rain continued for most of the time I was there. Not the best weather conditions for an island and beach destination. Time to get creative on how to spend my time. I got massages, I planned details for my next stop, I booked some flights to Indonesia and Australia, and I read a lot. The rain would normally lighten up in the late afternoon so while we didn’t get to work on our tans, we at least got to see the sunset on the beach. Luckily on my last full day in Langkawi the sun came out and we made another attempt to the sky bridge. It was well worth the wait with beautiful 360-degree views of the water and mountains and a uniquely curved pedestrian cabled bridge. We spent about an hour walking around and taking in the landscape. We celebrated with cold beers from 7-11 (one of the only places on the island that sell beer) while watching the sunset and sharing memories togethers.
Jungle safari.
Borneo is a biodiverse, untouched island shared by both Malaysia and Indonesia and often overlooked when traveling. Maybe because it is rugged and off the beaten path, maybe because it is a bit more expensive to get to, or maybe because it is not a traditional holiday destination for many. Whatever the reason, I decided to venture there. I flew into Kota Kinabalu, the largest city in Borneo and planned to spend a few days there, checking out Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in SE Asia. Upon research I learned that to hike Kinabalu, it would cost more than $500 US dollars….so that was a hard no for me. I could not justify the cost when I have hike so many amazing mountains before for a fraction of the price. In Kota Kinabalu (KK for short), it was raining, so options were limited in what I could do. Islands were out of the question, ATV tours were canceled, and hiking at the foothills of Kinabalu National Park would be muddy, so I opted for a more cultural experience. I met two lovely Germans at my hostel that wanted to go with me to Mari Mari Cultural Center. It was a half day experience to see a local village and learn all about the six different tribes that inhabit Borneo. We got to try different rice whisky, non-stinging bee honey, learn how they live, and watch them perform a local dance. In the evening the three of us made our way to the local night market and had an interesting dining experience. The market was full of hundreds of different fish merchants selling their fresh caught fish and cooking it right there on the grill for you. We found one and selected our colorful fish and a few side dishes. The meal was incredible and only cost each of us $5. A meal I will likely never forget. On our way back we bought fresh mango (some the size of my head) and went to bed with a happy belly.
Next was Tawau Hills. I flew there early in the AM to be picked up at the airport and taken to the NGO (non-governmental organization), onestopborneo headquarters. I was recommended to this nonprofit from a fellow traveler and booked a stay for two nights and three days. I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into, but I am all about taking a risk. It was in the middle of nowhere with nothing but nature and tons of species of macaques monkeys. The first day we took a short tour around the facilities, had some relaxation time, went for a nature hike in the afternoon and night walk in the evening. We saw so many insects, frogs, bats, snakes, scorpions, spiders, etc. I am normally not into these types of animals, but it was soooo cool. The next morning, we woke up early to hang out at a fig tree that was fruiting where animals would come to eat. We saw so many different species of hornbills, monkeys, birds, and squirrels. We went back to this spot multiple times and it became like a second home. I opted for a hike to a sulfur hot spring in the afternoon and got attacked by leaches. While these little things are small and seem harmless, they still freak me out every time. I bled through my socks where they bit me…gross. The founder of the NGO, Shavez, was so wonderful. He taught me a ton, was so passionate about his work and accommodating to my needs. Unfortunately, the water went out on the first day which was not ideal, but the experience made up for it.
My next adventure was to Sepilok, or a small area outside of Sandakan in Borneo known for an Orangutan and Sun Bear rehabilitation center. I stayed in a remote hostel for two nights after a long-delayed bus ride from Tawau Hills. The bus was two hours late due to maintenance issues, dropped me off in the middle of nowhere, where I waited another two hours for the local bus to pick me up due to an accident. I finally made it to my destination tired and hungry. I did some yoga on the sun porch and went to bed right after dinner. The next day I headed to the rehabilitation centers to see monkey feedings and bears scrounging around for food. The orangutans were so fascinating to watch and the bears were adorable. The next morning, I was off to Kinabatangan River for another adventure.
I booked my next tour from the couple I met in KK without knowing much about what was to happen the next few days. But I was on the hunt for more natural wildlife and jungle adventures. This time around, I was hoping to see crocodiles, elephants, probiscis monkeys and wild orangutans. We were taken to a nice lodge called Borneo Natural Sakau Bilit Resort right on the river in the morning. We went on an afternoon river cruise to search for animals. We saw tons of monkeys, a wild orangutan, huge crocodiles, baby crocs, and different species of birds. The morning cruises were so calm and beautiful. It was unlike anything I have ever done before. We saw more of the same animals and headed back for a tasty breakfast. We had the afternoon off to journal, nap, read, etc. and enjoy the quiet. I donated some money to plant a jackfruit tree for the animals to enjoy once it grows big and tall. We headed back out on the river in the afternoon. The night walk was less fruitful and only saw some birds sleeping and not much else. The next morning, we repeated the morning cruise but sadly did not spot any elephants. I met many lovely people on the excursions and enjoyed my time on the river.
The jen essentials for malaysia.
- Hiking boots (it is rainy, muddy, and rough in the rainforest)
- Toilet paper (from bus stations to mall restrooms to restaurants, toilet paper is nonexistent)
- Portable charger (long bus rides and lack of electricity in the middle of the rainforest call for this)
- An appetite for interesting foods (how do you know if you don’t like something if you have never tried it?)
- A photographer (find someone to take photos of you for all the cool architecture in the big cities)
- Bug spray (I ran out of Malaria pills for Borneo and turns out it is impossible to get them anywhere in Malaysia so just load up on bug spray – the mosquitos are no FREAKING joke)
- Love of nature (don’t go to Borneo if you do not appreciate the outdoors and wildlife)
- Fast food (Malaysia is the first Asian city I went to that had a plethora of fast-food options and so I obviously indulged in McDonalds, Starbucks, and pizza hut – don’t judge)
- Monkeys (no trip is complete to Malaysia without seeing hundreds of monkeys – watch out for the Macaques, they are aggressive)
- Rain jacket (why do you think it’s called a rainforest?)
Wrap it up jen.
Malaysia surprised me. Maybe I didn’t know what to expect, maybe I didn’t research a ton before I got there, maybe I thought it would be like the other countries in SE Asia I had already visited, but regardless, it surprised me. From the mix of religions to the food, to the wilderness, to the city life, it was so many things wrapped in one country. I spent almost four weeks in total there and had so many different experiences. Each experience was memorable and special.
If I am being honest though, the best part of Malaysia was the food. Makanan means “food” in Malay and I basically ate my way through Malaysia whether it was Indian, Chinese, Indonesian, Middle Eastern, fast food, or Bornean fish. Funny enough the week before I left for my trip in January, there was a popular Seattle restaurant called Kedai Makan (which means food shop) known for its delicious Malaysian food, that was closing to reopen at a later unspecified date. I tried three times to go but the wait was hours, and they were no longer taking names for the waitlist. Little did I know that a few months later I would be in Malaysia eating so much Nasi Goreng (fried rice), Mie Goreng (friend noodles) and Lakso (soup) at authentic kedai makans. For my Seattle peeps, if the restaurant Kedai Makan is open again in Capitol Hill, please go and report back. My guess is you will not be disappointed 😊
Up next: A short stopover in Singapore to see what all the hype is about.
Signing off for now,
Jennifer