checked off.
In February this year, yes, I am extremely behind on my blogging, I had the joy of attending Carnaval in Brazil. I am dedicating an entire blog post to those 10 days because it is such a unique experience. If you have been following along my blog the last few years, I typically write a blog post for each country, but there is just too much I want to share about Carnaval.
The first time I traveled to South America, about eight years ago, I heard about a legendary event called Carnaval. A month-long explosion of music, dancing, parades, costumes, glitter, and joyful chaos. I didn’t know when or where, but I promised myself I’d experience it one day.
Well, my friends, I’m thrilled to report: Carnaval has officially been crossed off my life bucket list. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen…a wild, beautiful, overwhelming celebration that some people dream of and others run from. If you’re in the latter camp, don’t worry, I’ve lived it, loved it, and I’m here to tell you all about it!
origin story.
During the events, I asked several Brazilians why they celebrate Carnaval and many did not know the full story. History has become diluted down in the last several centuries that many don’t even know the origin.
After some help from ChatGPT, I learned that Carnaval started as a religious event. It is the last big celebration before Lent, the 40-day period of fasting, reflection, and penance leading up to Easter in the Christian calendar. Carnaval typically ends the night before Fat Tuesday, and the idea was to feast and indulge before a period of discipline.
The concept of a pre-Lenten festival came from the Portuguese colonizers, and throughout the years, African influences brought rhythms, dance styles (like samba), and spiritual traditions that started to transform the celebration. It has become a time for Brazilians and visitors like me to express joy, identity, resistance, and creativity.
Today, as I know it, it is a big party. Festivities start a month before the official date. Larger cities begin setting up stages and plan to house thousands, even millions of people. Rio de Janeiro is the largest celebration with 8 million people coming to participate in the festivities this year. Other notable cities with huge celebrations include Salvador, Recife, Belo Horizonte, Florianopolis, and Sao Paulo. Surrounding countries feel left out and also have mini Carnaval celebrations of their own.
planning is must.
I started planning my Carnaval journey months in advance. As soon as I said I would be attending Carnaval, my good friend Lauren from Seattle booked her flight. In the popular cities, hotels and hostels start filling up 6 months prior and prices are sky high. Outside of Carnaval season, an Airbnb would be $30 a night. During Carnaval Airbnb’s can go for hundreds of dollars. If you book far enough in advance, you can avoid these surcharges. Take note if you plan to go to Carnaval in the future, book between now and November!
After a whole lot of research, Lauren and I decided to split our time between two places: Florianópolis, a large island in southern Brazil, and Rio de Janeiro. We wanted to ease into the Carnaval chaos with a more laid-back, intimate setting. Plus, some well-deserved beach time (since this was Lauren’s vacation, after all). But we also couldn’t miss the chance to see Rio in all its Carnaval glory. But readers, keep in mind that anywhere in Brazil that you choose will be an incredible experience.
Our Airbnb host, João, was incredibly helpful and gave us recommendations and links to events on how to purchase tickets prior to arriving. We did as best we could to map out our plans, but with Carnaval there is only so much you can plan for. Sometimes you just need to show up and figure it out. Which is hard for me, but I am learning.
We heavily used the app, Blocos da Rua, that listed every event in most cities with details of the event, times, locations, etc. The only downside…it was only in Portuguese. At the time, I knew about 10 words in Portuguese, so this would be interesting. However, it was beyond helpful. Events are spread out ALL over the city and happening at the same time. It reminded me of a weekend concert like Lollapalooza. If you are familiar with this festival, there are stages spread throughout Grant Park and surrounding areas so you have to plan which artists you want to see at which stage and when.
Lastly, we had to plan costumes. This is Lauren’s specialty. She has an entire closet of costumes in Seattle and regularly hosts themed parties. One of the reasons we because instant friends. She oversaw finding the perfect outfits for us and bringing them with her. Miraculously everything fit in her suitcase, and we had glittery, colorful, and Carnaval appropriate clothing. Partner in crime – check. Outfits – check. Airbnb – check. Sense of adventure – check.
know before you go.
I am sharing this knowledge with you because as a foreigner and first time Carnaval goer, I would have liked to have known this information in advance. I typically say ignorance is bliss, but in this case, knowledge is power.
Activities start as early as 7am and basically don’t stop until the final day. You can find clubs and events until 6am. Why sleep? Find the events you want to attend ahead of time and plan around them. ChatGPT, apps, and google are your best friends.
Blocos are street parties. They block off entire streets, in some cases fields, and they are filled with people, parades, street vendors (selling food, drinks, and Carnaval paraphernalia), stages with live music or DJs, and more. Blocos are free of charge and open to anyone and everyone. They are always packed and very chaotic.
Stages are set throughout the cities, often in parks or large cul-de-sacs with different performances throughout the day. Anything from drag shows to samba group performances, to famous singers and bands. Some cost money, some are free, all promise to be a good time!
The Sambadrome is a venue with stadium seating on both sides where huge floats and samba dancers’ parade through the center. The top samba schools from all over the country come to show off their skills, beautiful-crafted floats, and stunning costumes with glitter and feathers that can be seen from miles away.
Since the Sambadrome is considered the main event of Carnaval, it’s recommended to buy tickets in advance. The most reliable site is riocarnaval.org, though tickets are available on several platforms’ months ahead of time. We chose to wait and purchase ours once we arrived, just to get a better sense of the scene. But prices were exponentially higher.
There are two main ticket types: general seating in the grandstands, which seats are assigned and priced based on your section, like a stadium event, and VIP tickets, which offer an all-inclusive experience with food, drinks, and additional entertainment. Both options offer something special and, in my opinion, are absolutely worth the investment.
Transportation around the city can be challenging. There are overlapping events in all corners of the cities, massive crowds, and blocked streets. Thank goodness for uber and 99 (Brazilian version of Uber). They are safe, cheap, and quick. For the most part, they are readily available. Traffic is horrible and surge pricing is a real thing (so be prepared), but it beats the hot public buses or walking. Don’t walk.
Lastly, and maybe the most important item, so pay attention. Crime and petty theft during Carnaval are a real thing and tend to increase due to the influx of tourists and large public gatherings. During Carnaval last year, Rio de Janeiro experienced a nearly 40% rise in cellphone thefts compared to the same period in the previous year. There are also notable increases in street robberies, pickpocketing, scams, and vehicle thefts.
Not to scare people from attending the event, only to being awareness so you can enjoy the events with caution and safety. Bring a burner phone, or if you are like me, don’t bring a phone at all. Please note this is the reason I do not have many photos from Carnaval (I have a few that you can find in the Gallery tab). I only brought with me money I would need for the day, ChapStick, and my dancing feet. Don’t wear expensive jewelry or watches. I watched a necklace get ripped off someone’s neck. These people are pros and Carnaval is their Christmas. Be vigilant, be aware of your surroundings, and secure your valuables.
it begins.
OK now to the good part. The celebration! I flew to Florianopolis a few days before the start of Carnaval to orient myself and get a feel for the island. Lauren met me there on day 1 of the events.
Florianópolis, often called Floripa, is famous for being one of Brazil’s top destinations known for its stunning natural beauty and vibrant culture. It is an island in the south of Brazil, located in the state of Santa Catarina. It has beaches, surfing, hiking, delicious seafood, nightlife, and a chill vibe.
Lauren and I took some time to catch up on life, stocked up on food and drinks for the week, and picked out our first night’s outfits. With no real expectations, we headed to the city center, where most of the Carnaval events were rumored to take place. We arrived a bit early, people were slowly trickling in, but nothing much was happening yet. Neither of us spoke any Portuguese or had a clue what should be happening, so we simply waited and watched.
Soon, a large group of women in colorful costumes began to gather, and about an hour later, the party officially kicked off (I know now this is typical for Brazil, timeliness is not a priority). A massive, all-women parade started circling a nearby park, led by a booming sound truck blasting music. Bands, dancers, wild outfits…it was all there. The energy kept building as the women looped around the park again and again. The crowd only grew louder and livelier and went on for hours. I guess we found the party.
Something you must know about Brazilian culture, caipirinhas are a way of life. A caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail. It is a refreshing, sweet, and citrusy drink made with cachaça (a Brazilian spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice), muddled lime, spoonfuls of white granulated sugar, and ice. Mix it all together, put a straw in it and you have yourself a party in a drink. They are delicious. After 2 or 3, you feel good and ready to dance. Not to mention, they typically cost $2-5, so does or doesn’t help – depending on who you ask.
Jetlag and exhaustion were starting to catch up with us, so we grabbed a burger from a nearby food truck and called it a night. With several more days of celebration ahead, we knew we had to pace ourselves. But if this first taste was any sign of what was to come, we were more than ready.
In the next six days we managed to pack as much in as possible in Floripa. We saw drag shows, talented musicians, and vivacious dancers, while attending many more blocos. Apart from Carnaval activities we also spent days at different beaches, Praia do Campeche, Praia da Lagoa da Barra, and Praia Naufragados. They were all beautiful in their own ways. My favorite part of Brazilian beaches is the access to find food and drinks. Vendors are walking by, but not in a pushy way, selling snacks. The most interesting thing is cheese that they heat up right before you in a little silver kettle like grill. And don’t forget the caipirinhas, they are readily available at every turn.
38.
As luck would have it, my birthday landed right in the heart of the festivities and I couldn’t have imagined a better way to celebrate another trip around the sun. We kicked off the day with a popular hike from Lagoa da Barra to the neighboring beach Praia Mole. The trail was breathtaking, offering sweeping views of sparkling lakes, the endless ocean, tropical flora, and striking blue skies. After working up a sweat, we dove into the ocean (warm, but still refreshing), sipped on a few perfectly mixed caipirinhas (ask for less sugar so it is not too sweet), and soaked up the warmth of the sun (with lots of sunscreen of course). I couldn’t think of a better start to the day.
We went back to the Airbnb to get dolled up for the evening. We put on our best outfits (sequined butterfly tops and flapper like sequined shorts of course), and cheered to another year of health, adventure, and joy. We headed to the main stage in the center of town for a drag show filled with incredible costumes and pure entertainment. As we were not ready for the night to end, we made our way to a bloco in the Jurere neighborhood in the north of the island. It was one of the most fun birthdays I have ever had and one I will likely NEVER forget.
floripa VIP.
Lauren and I knew we couldn’t leave Floripa without experiencing at least one night in the Sambadrome. We had to see what all the hype was about. Since we waited until the last minute to buy tickets, the only option left was VIP. Twist our arms. Instead of tickets, we were handed oversized, brightly colored T-shirts that doubled as our entry passes and identifiers for our specific VIP section. Let’s just say… they weren’t exactly fashion-forward. Determined not to let them ruin our evening’s look, we headed back and got creative (or what we thought was creative) cutting off sleeves, tying knots, making the most of what we had.
The event started at 9pm. However, it took us at least 30 minutes to find which door to enter through. After walking twice around the venue, we finally found others in the same shirt and followed them through the door where we started. Eyeroll. We were shocked to see what the other guests did to the shirts. Women made dresses out of them! They used the fabric to make accessories! They added diamonds and additional fabric to make beautiful clothing. It was so impressive, our jaws were on the floor. If we didn’t stand out as gringas before, we did now. Amateurs.
The event had an open bar and buffet style finger food. The set up was a huge open space with a stage for a band or DJ, another for the food, and then a tiny portion that looked out onto the parade going through the center. It was on the ground level, so unless you were in the front you could barely see the parade of stunning costumes. It seemed like people were not there to see the parade, more to party. And to show off their t-shirt masterpieces, obviously. The event lasted until wee hours of the morning, we did not. However, I think we got our money’s worth in food and vodka.
change of scenery.
Our time on the island was incredible. It was a mix of shows, street parties, beaches, and hiking. It was the perfect starting point for our first Carnaval adventure. After 6 days, it was time to experience a more intense Carnaval. With three days remaining, we boarded the plane…final destination, Rio de Janeiro.
We stayed in an Airbnb in Copacabana, touristy, yes, but right on the iconic beach, with a stronger police presence and a central location that made getting around easy. Carnaval in Rio is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. There truly are no words that can fully capture the energy.
Karol, or Karlitos as I know him from our hostel volunteer days in Mendoza, was also in town for the festivities. On our first night, we met up with him in Lapa, a gritty, late-night neighborhood known for its bars, music, pee smelling streets, and slightly sketchier vibe. We grabbed a few beers and soaked it all in. The next night, we wandered back to Lapa to catch a live band. I couldn’t even tell you the name of the place as the streets are packed with venues and we stumbled into this one by chance. As luck would have it, the show was incredible and one of my favorite moments of the entire Carnaval experience. We danced nonstop, then chased the night by joining a bloco nearby.
We also managed to sneak in a fancy cocktail overlooking the beach, went for a swim in the rough and playful waves, did some light souvenir shopping and took some time to rest. We had to save our energy for the final day of events!
grand finale.
There was one last major event on the final “official” day of Carnaval and believe it or not, it kicked off at 7 am. In Floripa, our mornings were much slower – leisurely breakfasts, yoga, a gentle start to the day. But in Rio? Different story. Morning bloco, here we come.
Headlining the parade was none other than Anitta, Brazil’s queen of pop and a national icon. We weren’t about to miss it. Lauren, Karol, and I set our alarms and made it to the bloco around 8:30 am, only to find it already overflowing with people. Firehoses sprayed mist into the crowd to keep everyone cool and the streets were alive with costumes, glitter, and partygoers of all ages.
Though we were running on fumes after a week packed with nonstop celebration, we rallied. With drinks in hand and a street meat snack, we danced our hearts out to Anitta’s rhythms well into the afternoon. Then we napped, hard.
Like Floripa, there is a Sambadrome in Rio. Only BIGGER! The major difference? Tickets are more expensive. If you buy in advance, prices are reasonable. But when we went to look at prices, they were hundreds of dollars for the grandstands and FORGET about VIP. As a frugal and conscious backpacker, there are some experiences that I regretfully sometimes pass on. This was one of them. I was already spending more than I typically would during the Carnaval celebrations. Lauren, in contrast, was on vacation and had other ideas. She surprised me with tickets for my birthday present! Best. Present. Ever.
The Sambadrome was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Part parade, part spectacle, and part rowdy sporting event. If I had to compare it, imagine the energy of a packed University of Michigan football game or a Real Madrid match… then add glitter, feathers, and drums echoing through the night.
It took us nearly 45 minutes just to find the right entrance, a chaotic journey that reminded us of our Floripa adventures. This time, we had seats in the stands, so after finally making it inside around 10 pm, we shimmied our way through the crowd and claimed a spot. We were seated near the top, in the middle of everything, just taking it all in.
The Sambadrome holds up to 90,000 people, and with the parades spread across four nights, nearly half a million spectators take part in the celebration. The scale, the sounds, the sheer energy – it was truly unforgettable.
Looking back on our time at Carnaval, I wouldn’t change a single thing. We did it all. Soaked up every moment, embraced the chaos, found a balance between wild nights and relaxing afternoons, and connected with people from all over the world. But what made it truly special was experiencing it together. This adventure is now a memory Lauren and I always share, and for that, I’m deeply grateful.
the jen essentials for carnaval.
- My girl Lauren (she just makes everything better. PERIOD.)
- Portuguese (English and Spanish are not widely spoken around the country – best to learn the basics of Portuguese!)
- Caipirinhas (cheap, delicious, simple, and dangerous)
- Carnaval app (without this, we would have been lost puppies)
- Costumes (It does not have to be sparkles and sequins…we saw everything from big bird to where’s Waldo, AKA bothing is off-limits)
- Sunscreen (it’s hot and the sun is strong!)
- Rest (do not try to do it all…take some rest between activities, I promise you will need it)
- Dancing shoes (Brazilians LOVE to dance and the music is always playing)
- Burner phone (pick pocketers are pros, don’t risk it)
- Brazilian love (from our amazing Airbnb hosts to the people we met out and about, I felt loved and welcomed by the locals)
wrap it up jen.
People from all corners of the world come to experience the magic of Carnaval. The festivities occur at all hours of the day, taking place across countless cities and states throughout Brazil. It’s a celebration where Brazilians and foreigners, young and old, dance side by side in a shared spirit of joy and connection. What is better than that? There’s no barrier, everyone is welcome. Carnaval is for everyone. Come one, come ALL and be part of the magic.
What I didn’t realize at the time was that this was the beginning of my love affair with Brazil. The culture, the music, the dancing, the color, the contagious joy, the rich food, the caipirinhas…I fell for all of it. Carnaval was just the spark that lit the fire.
In fact, I am still in Brazil as I am writing this, almost 6 months later. I feel at home here. I am welcomed wherever I go and each place I visit gets better. I will be sad to leave, but I know that Brazil’s doors are always open (well after 6 months of being away from the country – thanks visa restrictions). I will be back.
Up next: More of my unique and amazing adventures in Brazil.
Until next time,
Jennifer