a little bit of everything.
From sun-soaked beaches and rugged mountains to vibrant nightlife, rich history, and captivating art, the Canary Islands truly have something for everyone. This Spanish archipelago, just 100 kilometers off the northwest coast of Africa, is renowned for its dramatic volcanic landscapes and striking black and white sand beaches. Home to over 2.2 million people, the islands attract millions of visitors each year. Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura, and Lanzarote stand out as top destinations for European travelers (AND ME), offering a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation.
Flights from mainland Spain to the islands will cost you roughly $20 (thank you Ryan Air) and an obvious destination for me with a mix of remarkable beaches and challenging hiking trails. I had a month to explore and was ready for a bit of island hopping. My mom brought my yoga mat, my back up Hoka shoes, and some bikinis so I had everything I would need to survive my time on the islands.
tenerife.
Tenerife is known for a few things. First being Mount Teide, a World Heritage Site and the highest peak in Spain and the 3rd tallest volcano in the world, measured from its base on the ocean floor. And yes, I had to climb it. I stayed at an amazing hostel called Tortuga and after chatting with some other guests at the hostel, a couple from Germany rented a car and wanted to do the hike.
The challenge? Limited daily entrance permits to the national park which are always completely booked for the next month. Our only option? A midnight trek. To bypass the permit requirement, we had to reach the summit before 9AM, meaning a pre-dawn ascent with a sunrise payoff. With snacks packed, headlamps secured, and our warmest layers on, we set off into the darkness, ready for the adventure ahead. After attempting a few hours of sleep, we woke at 1:30AM, drove an hour to the trailhead, and started the 4.5-hour climb to reach the peak by 7AM.
The volcano sits at an impressive 3,715 meters (about 12,200 feet) above sea level. We began our hike on White Mountain, snagging the last parking spot before ascending roughly 4,500 feet over five miles…a challenging climb, but absolutely worth it! Around 100 other hikers joined us for the night trek, and together, we celebrated at the summit.
I’ll be honest… we opted for the cable car on the way down. Exhausted, we couldn’t imagine how the long descent would feel on our knees and with the lack of sleep, it would not have been ideal. So yes, we took a little shortcut, but I have zero regrets. By 11 a.m., we were back, took a well-earned siesta, and later, reminisced over drinks. If you’re in Tenerife, this is an unforgettable adventure you won’t want to miss!
I spent the second half of my time on Tenerife in a quaint town called San Cristobal de La Laguna. The city is nestled in the mountains with easy access to Anaga National Park, a beautiful area at the north end of the island lined with trees, mountains, and coastline. I met many lovely humans at the Patio Hostel including Eleanore from Holland. We went for a hike from Punta del Hidalgo to Chinamada, a STUNNING walk along the edge of mountains with panoramic views of the sea and beautiful cacti everywhere you look. I spent the other days on smaller local hikes, enjoying coastline walks, and exploring the neighboring city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Secondly, Tenerife has a vivacious night scene. With streets lined with discotecas and late-night bars, the night comes alive with travelers and locals alike looking to enjoy a cold cocktail and live music. The Tortuga hostel had a wonderful community feel and arranged different evening activities most nights, which of course I obliged.
Finally, Tenerife’s vibrant culture leaves a lasting impression. Each year, between September and November, villages across the island celebrate the end of the harvest season with a romería, a lively blend of religious pilgrimage and harvest festival honoring each village’s patron saint. The festivities begin with a mass, followed by a colorful parade where carts and trucks hand out free local wine and traditional foods like Canarian potatoes. Dressed in bright traditional attire, locals dance through the streets, leading the celebration to the central square, where live music and dancing continue late into the night. A group of us from the hostel joined in and were met with incredible warmth and hospitality, making it a truly unforgettable experience.
the beauty of gran canaria.
Beaches have my heart, but mountains have my soul. Gran Canaria has a differing terrain from black sand beaches and rolling sand dunes along the coast and the island’s interior is rural and mountainous. After a ROUGH and rocky ferry ride from Tenerife I took a 2-hour bus to the western coast to the city of Agaete. The small village on the coast was tucked away in mountains with mostly white houses and buildings. There was not much going on, and I was perfectly OK with that. I found a yoga hostel (how could I not stay there?) called Casa Calma Yoga Guesthouse and was looking forward to a few chill days. I woke up each morning for a rejuvenating yoga class. I hiked along the cliffs and watched the sunset from the natural pools. The best part of my time in Agaete was meeting Hermoine, a beautiful soul from France. We were in the shared dorm together and bonded instantly.
After Agaete, our next destination planned was Las Palmas, the largest port city on Gran Canaria, so we hopped on a local bus and headed there together. One day, we ventured to Maspalomas, home to the island’s famous dunes. Like kids, we ran down the sandy slopes, did a bit of shopping, savored a delicious meal, and enjoyed getting to know each other.
Maspalomas is a major tourist hotspot, particularly popular with the gay community. With Pride just around the corner, the beaches and hotels were gearing up for a lively weekend. The beaches are clothing-optional, which made for some… unforgettable sights. Some of which I can never unsee. Let’s just say, Spain is an incredibly open and accepting place, one of the many reasons I love it so much!
After Las Palmas, I spent several days in the mountains and lush greenery in the center of the island, in a remote hostel on a cliff near the city of Tejeda. The views from the hostel were already beautiful, but I still planned to do some hiking over the next few days. The two most popular hikes on the island are Roque Nublo and Pico de Nieves. Using a trekking app so as not to get lost, I planned my next two days of hikes, headed to the nearest grocery store (another 30-minute hike) for packed lunches, and downloaded some podcasts for entertainment.
Roque Nublo is a beautiful overlook with 360 views of the island. The only problem is…you can drive there. Meaning tourists from all over the island flood the popular destination to get the perfect selfie. Not to mention in their flip flops without breaking a sweat. I try not to judge people in this very situation, but it is hard…I’m working on it.
The next day I hiked around the ridge on the opposite side of Roque Nublo. This was not as difficult as the previous day but my favorite. Every turn, every way you look was another incredible viewpoint. I walked along the rim of the cliff to Cuevas de Caballeros, translating to caves of the cowboys. This trek was less traveled so I took my time at all the beautiful lookouts and enjoyed the peacefulness. I know I have said this before, but pictures just don’t do it justice. See all photos by viewing the Gallery tab and scrolling down to Canary Islands.
halloween in the canaries.
Oh how I love Halloween. I typically start planning my Halloween costume months in advance. I have an ongoing list on my phone of ideas that come up. I find so much joy in dressing up and acting like a different character all night. I planned to be in Las Palmas for the holiday since there would hopefully be more going on to celebrate. Luckily, I made friends with a down-to-earth German in Tenerife, Frieder, and we planned to be in the same hostel for Halloween and celebrate together. Hermoine from Agaete was also in. Even though Halloween is not a big deal in most countries, both were excited to dress up and appease my childish behavior.
It took me a few hours at the local mall to put together a costume with limited options and funds, but I managed to figure it out. Hermoine and I spent the entire afternoon at the mall to collect the necessary clothing and accessories. Frieder was Mario from Super Mario Brothers, Hermoine was an angel, and I would be a Unicorn. Bright, colorful, and one of a kind. All those things are true the other 364 days of the year. Once in costume, we stopped by several hostels that were having Halloween parties on the rooftops, walked the promenade, and ended the evening at the Irish Rover pub. We were basically the only ones dressed up. BUT what matters most is WE HAD A BLAST! I am grateful for them joining in on my love of Halloween and will always remember the phrase “IT’S A MARIO” in a strong Italian accent.
one is not like the others.
Lanzarote is one of the eight Canary Islands that feels different than the others. Its uniqueness is instantly recognizable. I had heard this from others, but I wanted to experience it for myself. I planned four days on the island, two in the larger city of Arrecife near the airport (I flew this time because there was no way I was braving another four-hour ferry in rough waters) and two in the south, in Playa Blanca.
For my first full day I booked an all-day excursion to all the popular hot spots through GetYourGuide. Since renting a car was out of my budget, it would take way too long to get around the island with the limited bus schedules. I spent the day on a packed tour bus exploring Lanzarote’s unique landscapes. We stopped at Cuevas de los Verdes, a beautiful lava-formed cavern, Jameos del Agua, astunning volcanic cave system transformed into a unique cultural and artistic space by César Manrique (the island’s famous architect), a scenic overlook with views of La Graciosa (a small island off the coast), a well-known local winery, and finally, Timanfaya National Park.
The highlight of the day was Timanfaya, a vast volcanic expanse covering much of the island’s western side, shaped by eruptions in the 1730s. Unlike any national park I’ve visited, there are no hiking trails, only winding roads designed for cars and buses to navigate through surreal rock formations, ancient volcanic craters, and dramatic landscapes.
I made my way to Playa Blanca, a popular vacation spot for European travelers. The CanaryIslands have a similar appeal to the Caribbean for those in the U.S., offering a warm, sunny escape. The beaches here are nestled between cliffs, attracting mostly families and couples enjoying the serene coastline.
On my first day, I walked along the shore for hours, eventually settling on a bench to watch the sunset, the best way I know how to take it all in. I spent my last day on the island at Playa Mujeres, a secluded beach about an hour’s hike from the city center. The trek was long and HOT, but the scenic route made it more than worth it. In conclusion, Lanzarote is defined by its year-round warm weather, volcanic terrain, and strikingly dry, black-and-red earth, truly a world of its own.
dunes and kites.
My final stop in the Canary Island tour was Fuerteventura, an island famous for its endless sand dunes, volcanic landscapes (no surprise there!), and adrenaline-filled water sports. The strong winds create ideal conditions for surfing, kitesurfing, and windsurfing.
I stayed in a cozy eight-bed hostel in Corralejo, where I quickly bonded with the volunteer, Daniel. The atmosphere felt more like a small family, with everyone getting along effortlessly. During my stay, I led sunset yoga classes on the beach for fellow guests and embraced the island’s vibrant nightlife on the weekends, including the popular Music Square with live performances from multiple local bands each night.
I spent a day with the other hostel guests at the beautiful Isla de Lobos, a small uninhabited island off to the north of the main island, only accessible by water taxi. I hiked the entire island loop in about 2 hours enjoying the views and ending with a refreshing jump in the ocean. I spent an afternoon hiking some volcanos near the small village of Vallebron with a Spanish guy, Guillem, staying my hostel. The hike was hot (lack of tree shade) and dusty (volcanic ash). After the hike we headed to Grandes Playas nestled in the sand dunes of the National Park of Corralejo. It is a well-known destination for old-fashioned kites, surfing, and the like.
the jen essentials for the canary islands.
- Bathing suit and beach towel (islands = endless beaches)
- Hiking boots (too many volcanoes not to hike. They would be mad at me if I didn’t)
- Yoga mat (beach yoga will forever be my favorite)
- Halloween costume (this only applies if you will be there on October 31, and cannot be missed)
- A good book (lots of down time on the beaches, buses, and ferries)
- R&R (my body was craving some much needed downtime)
- SUNSCREEN (it is hot, sunny, and limited shade)
- Tortilla de patatas (last chance…I surely will miss them)
- New friends (I met so many amazing people on the islands, you know who you are, people I hope to see again somewhere in the world)
- Cold cheap beer (just because I needed one more essential item)
wrap it up jen.
I spent exactly 90 days in Spain, maxing out on my visitor visa. I love this country for so many reasons. The nature, the people, the tortilla de patatas, the culture, the mountains and volcanoes, the beaches, I could go on and on and never run out of amazing qualities to describe Spain.
My time in the Canary Islands was the perfect way to wrap up my journey through Spain. After spending a few incredible months on the mainland, the islands offered exactly what I needed…a beautiful balance of adventure and relaxation.
I first heard about the Canaries last year from someone who visited often and raved about them. Her enthusiasm stuck with me, and I knew I had to see them for myself. Unlike Mexico or the Caribbean, which are easily accessible to Americans, the Canary Islands aren’t a typical U.S. travel destination. In fact, during my month there, I only met about three other Americans! Let this blog plant the seed in your mind to visit! I promise you wont regret it.
It was ABOUT TIME for me to experience the islands for myself. It was everything and more. I hope you too can experience them one day.
Up next: Uruguay, I am just going to stay on island time for now.
Signing off for now,
Jennifer