Saved the best for last.
Before I mapped out all the countries I traveled to, I knew I wanted to end in Costa Rica. Costa Rica has a very special place in my heart. Mainly because 16 years ago, I studied abroad in Alajuela de Grecia, an hour outside of San Jose. It was about a four-month program where I stayed with a host family and was immersed in a new culture, language, and environment. At first, I remember being so outside of my element and often dreamt of going home. During the last half of the program, I got into the groove and when it came time to go home, I didn’t want to leave. It was then that I realized travel had to be a big part of my future. So it was only right that I end my year abroad in a country that started it all. I apologize in advance for the length of this blog post, I have a lot to say about this lovely place and A LOT OF PICTURES to share!
Costa Rica is the the most visited country in Central America. It is a popular nature travel destination with its well-established system of national parks and protected areas, covering around 23.4% of the country’s land area. It has thousands of miles of beaches on both the Caribbean and Pacific coast side. For these reasons, it is the most expensive country in Central America and 6th most expensive in the Americas, following closely behind the US. Out of the 25 countries I visited this year, it ranks near to the top. The prices have increased exponentially in the last decade because tourists have realized the goodness that is Costa Rica (For example, my favorite dish arroz con pollo – or rice with chicken – used to be about $3 USD and now it is $11 USD). Apart from the high prices; it is also a very safe country which makes it a target vacation spot for the less risk adverse travelers, flights are generally cheap to and from the US, and it has stunning coastlines, rainforests, and volcanoes. The secret is out and there is no going back.
The old port.
My first stop was Puerto Viejo, on the Caribbean Ocean, close to the border or Panama. I actually visited back in September right after Panama because flights were significantly cheaper from San Jose than Panama City. So, I took a bus across the border from Bocas del Toro and stayed three nights before heading to El Salvador. I went to Puerto Viejo during my study abroad experience on one of my first weekends there and remember it having a hipster/reggae vibe. And I am pleased to tell you it still does! There are vendors all along the roads selling their handcrafted jewelry and a lively but laid-back bar scene. However, nothing looked familiar…not sure if that is my memory failing me or it has changed over the years.
I spent a day at Cahuita National Park with a friendly German I met in the hostel. We packed our swimsuits, snacks, and took a public bus about 20 minutes north for $1. The trail follows the coast with beautiful fauna and flora all around you. On one side you had the jungle, on the other was the ocean. There is a swamp about a mile into the path that also houses crocodiles. Signs were posted everywhere to stay away from the edge of the water. For good reason! Fortunately, and unfortunately, we did not see one. We did see a sloth sleeping in the tree, tons of monkeys swinging in the trees above us, a family of racoons, lizards, and many insects along the way. We made it to the north point and enjoyed swimming and basking in the sun for a bit, before heading back to catch the mid-afternoon bus. In the town, Hot Rocks was the go-to bar. They had different events each night. We saw acrobats, a live band, and some fellow travelers participated in an open mic night.
The next day, another American from the hostel and I rented bicycles to explore the other end of the coast. We made a stop at Cocles beach to cool off and enjoy a cold beer. We continued further up the hilly road and quickly worked up an appetite. We stopped for lunch at Manzanillo beach and headed back to return the bikes before 5pm. We took a stroll down the black sand beach during sunset and went for a much-needed night swim. My first time being back in the country after so long was just perfect, I was excited to spend the month of December here!
I love coconutz.
After spending time in Nicaragua, Louise and I crossed the border via bus into Costa Rica. The day after Thanksgiving a shuttle picked us up to take us to the border. We went through customs and border control in the rain (to enter Costa Rica you must walk across the border via foot) which was relatively seamless. We waited 30 minutes for the public bus to take us to Liberia. There we took another public bus to a nearby beach town called Playas del Coco (you could have guessed but coco means coconut in Spanish). The journey took about five hours in total, and we were pooped. We walked around the small beach town before finding Soda Teresita, a local spot for dinner. I told the server I loved spicy food, and he brought out his homemade hot sauce. Words cannot describe my love for this hot sauce. It might be my favorite EVER. I have dreams about it. We rested the rest of the night at our quiet boutique hotel (hotel M&M) right on the beach.
I started the next day with yoga on the beach (the best way to welcome a new day) and got ready for one of the biggest days in college football…MICHIGAN vs. OHIO STATE! The day before I scoped out some of the local bars to ensure there was somewhere to watch the game. Coconutz was the popular sports bar in town so I found whatever blue and yellow clothing I had in my backpack and got my game face ready. Louise didn’t have much interest in the game but came along to cheer on the wolverines with me. The bar was quite empty with a few OSU fans (gross) and me, the only Michigan fan. We did make friends with a lovely couple from Cincinnati regardless of their loyalty and bet beers on the winning team. It was an incredible game played by talented teams. However, in the end, Michigan was VICTORIOUS. Hail to the valiant victors! We celebrated with a sunset swim, had dinner with our new friends from Ohio, and danced the night away at Z Lounge. Another perfect day in paradise!
On our last day together, Louise and I boarded a catamaran for a sunset cruise along the coast. There were 40 people aboard and a friendly crew to make sure we had a wonderful day at sea. And that we had. We sailed to a northern beach cove and snorkeled around the coral. We went down the water slide embracing our inner child, enjoyed a tasty meal, and indulged in the open bar. I made friends with all the staff, including the captain. You all know by now that I always ask to drive the boat. This situation was no different. The sunset that evening was incredible and the full moon was bright enough to light our way home. I loved our time in Coco and spending time with Louise in both Nicaragua and Costa Rica was exactly the energy I needed to keep me going for my last month of travels!
Tamagringo.
While Louise made her way to the airport, I took a public bus to Tamarindo, my next destination. Well technically two busses, but you know what I mean. I came to Tamarindo 16 years ago when I studied abroad. It was a small surf town then…but it is NOT now. It has changed so much. Huge hotels on the beach, large shopping complexes, restaurants catered to westerners, and astronomical prices. It is a huge tourist destination and has been since nicknamed TamaGRINGO (gringo means white person in Spanish).
The beach was long and crowded. Vendors paced up and down the beach with drinks, clothing, watches, jewelry, and more. Men rode horses asking if you wanted a ride. Massage tables were set up every 30 feet. Restaurants offered all day happy hours and surf schools asked repeatedly if you wanted surf lessons. When I arrived, I dropped my stuff at the hostel and walked the beach at sunset taking it all in. That evening I went to a yin yoga class at Botella de Leche Hostel.
I stayed at a very chill hostel (Mai Ke Kai Surfhouse)where there were only eight beds in the upper floor of the large house. It just so happened that Heidi, an American I met in both Guatemala and Mexico, showed up the next morning with some friends she met in Nicaragua. We spent the next three days together enjoying the beach, watching fire shows on the beach at Tama Onda Bar and Namu, and finding the ladies night specials at different bars around town. We enjoyed live music and DJs playing reggaeton as we danced all night long. Every Thursday night there is a large outdoor market with live music, amazing street food, and unique shops. It was a great way to spend our final night in Tamarindo as we prepared to head out the next morning to different destinations. I had a long journey ahead of me to Playa Coyote, a remote beach on the southern end of Guanacaste.
The start of something new.
In 2019, I started a dedicated and daily practice of yoga. In my adult years I have taken many yoga classes, but never on a consistent basis. Over the last few years, I have come to absolutely love yoga. I deal with chronic back pain, arthritis, bulging discs, misaligned spine, and more. Yoga helps to stretch, realign, and strengthen my body while calming my mind in ways I never knew I needed. For me, it is also a form of creativity and art with the body, bringing me back to my dancing days but in a less strenuous way. I knew yoga would be a part of my life forever but I also knew there was more to the story. I wanted to share my love of yoga with others.
Before I left for my travels, I started researching yoga teacher trainings and ideal locations for these programs. There are several hubs of yoga throughout the world: Rishikesh and Mysore in India, Sri Lanka, several islands in Thailand, beaches in Mexico, all over Italy, Spain, Portugal, London, USA of course, Bali, and last but certainly not least Costa Rica. My heart was telling me I needed to complete my training in Costa Rica. As you know, Costa Rica propelled my love of travel 16 years ago and it was the perfect place to propel my desire to teach yoga. I spent hours and hours reading, researching and reviewing studios, locations, offered programs, and teachers until I found one that really spoke to me. It was through Soma Yoga Institute (https://somayogainstitute.com/?keyword) and at a resort called Salvatierra. The teachers, Liz and Peggy, were Americans with over 25 years of teaching yoga each with a therapeutic focus (perfect for my body ailments). The program was located in Guanacaste on Playa Coyote beach, a stunning and quiet beach north of Santa Teresa. The resort was beautiful, the timing was perfect, and the curriculum was focused on alignment and correct asana postures via vinyasa/hatha flows. I immediately signed up.
Fast forward to December 1st, I made my way from Tamarindo to Playa Coyote with a long journey ahead of me. I was trying to save money by taking public buses instead of paying $75 from the Liberia airport with an organized shuttle. Boy was that a mistake. It took me 12 hours; three buses, two taxis, and five hours of waiting at bus stops to get to the final destination. It ended up costing me more money than if I would have taken the shuttle. Lesson learned. I made it with 30 minutes to spare before the welcome dinner and settled in for the next 18 days. There were 16 other women from the US, France, Poland, and Canada, that were along for the ride with me.
For those of you that don’t know much about yoga teacher training courses, it is an intense 200-hour curriculum filled with everything you need to know to teach a yoga class. That means each day consisted of 11-12 hours of learning, OOOOF. We had sessions on anatomy, the history of yoga, ancient texts such as Patanjali’s sutras, philosophy, sequencing a class, poses (asanas) and their corresponding Sanskrit names, mediation/breathing techniques, workshops for assisting students, the basics of chair yoga for the disabled and elderly, the business of yoga, and more. We practiced yoga everyday for 2-3 hours incorporating what we learned that day into an organized class. We had two teaching practicums where we got to create a class of our own and teach the other students. We had silent and technology free mornings which was a challenge for many…not me, I LOVED IT! Our alarms went off at 5/5:30am as we prepared for an hour of meditation and breathing exercised. Each day we got two hours of free time. I either walked on the beach, swam in the pool, or found a quiet place to read or write my blog. Alone time was rare and so breaks were my time to recharge my social battery. The days were long! To say our bodies and minds were exhausted is an understatement.
We had three delicious meals a day that ALWAYS included rice and beans (no complaints here) with no gluten, dairy, or alcohol. Great – I had some extra pounds I put on in Mexico from all those amazing tacos and this would help. We ate all meals together as a little family. The women with me on this journey were incredible and from all walks of life. The youngest was 23, the oldest was about 60. Many were in a transition period after leaving or losing their jobs, like me, looking for what is next in life. Some want to deepen their yoga practice. Some want to teach; others had no intention. There were no cliques, no arguments, no problems. With that many women together for that long, you just never know. We went through something together that none of us will ever forget. It was so special!
We had one day off in the middle of the program to spend as we wished. Many of us decided to go to Sámara, a nearby beach town. I wanted to go to see how it had changed in the last 16 years. I didn’t recognize a single thing…shocking. My first stop was a bakery to indulge in GLUTEN and SUGAR. I went to Roots Bakery and got a delicious coconut and passionfruit cake. I walked around the village, found a local spot for arroz con pollo and read on the beach. It was a beautiful afternoon free from yoga and studying yoga.
My roomie during the program was a lovely German who was just starting her nine-month travel sabbatical. We bonded over our love of adventure and I shared my tips and tricks with her. We complimented each other perfectly and respected that we both needed our alone time after long days. We were in bed by 9pm each night. Except the evening of the meteor shower, I stayed up late in awe of the phenomenon, making many wishes upon the “shooting stars”. One wish I didn’t have to make was to find happiness. I accomplished that already! This year has shown me so much and I couldn’t be happier. But now I need to figure out how to sustain that if I am not climbing remote mountains in Vietnam or riding camels in Israel…
So I am happy to announce I am a certified yoga teacher (well, almost – I have a home assignment I need to finish next month)!!!! I am immensely grateful for the experience with Soma Yoga Institute. The teachers were so knowledgeable, gracious with their time, understanding with the difficulty of the training on our physical and mental bodies, and exactly what I needed. The women, all different in their own way, were amazing. We laughed, we cried (a lot!!!), we encouraged and supported each other, we shared intimate details of lives, we confided in each other, we bonded, we played in the ocean like kids, we took lots of yoga pics (seen here) on the beach, and we grew together. Knowing that these beautiful humans are going back home to share their love of yoga with their communities is incredible. Yoga has the power to heal, calm and transform. My wish is that more people come to know that and I can’t wait to share the practice of yoga with others.
My last two days of the yoga teacher training I was SO emotional. I have always been emotional (thanks mom and Grandma Super) but this was on another level. It hit me all at once that my year on the road was coming to an end, I was doing something for myself that I knew would have a tremendous impact on my future. Spoiler alert – this is just the beginning of my yoga journey.
My costa rican family.
For my study abroad program, I lived in with a host family in Tacares de Grecia. I was in conversation with my host family about my plans in Costa Rica and they welcomed me to their home without having to ask. I cannot think of a better place to spend my last four days than Tacares! Although I was a bit nervous because they do not speak English. This would be a test to see how much Spanish I learned from my recent travels and remembered from my studies over a decade ago. Tacares is a village of 1000 people about an hour outside of San Jose, between Alajuela and Grecia nestled in the hills and fields of caña (sugar cane). I got there late in the evening after spending a day at the San Jose markets with a few of the other yoga students and dinner was waiting for me. My host mother, Nereida, is a wonderful cook. She made me breakfast, lunch and dinner each day. My dad, Roger, is a hard working quiet man who always has a smile on his face. My youngest brother, Esteban, and his girlfriend live in the apartment behind the house. How convenient! Sadly, the older brother I was quite close with passed away two years back from covid. Seeing the pain in their eyes brings me to tears and there are no words to make it better. All I know is life is short, so take advantage of the time you have now.
Not much has changed in the town. I walked by the old house they lived in, visited the supermarket, stopped by another family’s house that hosted my friend, took the bus to Alajuela to get a massage, and spent hours with my family catching up on life. I was immersed into the culture once again, dreaming and thinking in Spanish 😊. I accompanied my host mother to church and a local home where we sang Christmas songs and prepared for the birth of Christ. I found the one and only yoga studio (Yoga Casa Shanti) in the surrounding area for a private Iyengar practice with the kind and talented owner. I was meant to meet her, and I know our paths will cross again! In the evening, I met an old friend from Chicago for my last hurrah in Costa Rica. Oswaldo is Tico (Costa Rican) and moved back seven years ago. He lives in a nearby town, and we caught up over my favorite local beer, Imperial.
My last day in Costa Rica I got a tattoo. My first tattoo was 16 years ago in Costa Rica during my final week studying abroad. So, it was only right I ended this world adventure with a tat (one of many – sorry mom). I have been thinking of this tattoo for a few months and doodling in my notebook on trains and buses to create the perfect design. I found Gemelos Tattoo Shop and booked an appointment. I got my own representation of the yoga flow of Surya Namaskar A. IFYKYK. It was the perfect end to an amazing year. I had time to think, process, and reflect on the past year in my own space (crazy to think I’m done with hostels for a while!). I didn’t feel like I had to see and do everything because it was a familiar place. My host family was so generous and loving. All I know is I will not wait another 16 years to see them again. I give it six months…
The jen essentials for costa rica.
- US Dollars (for reasons I don’t quite understand, the USD is accepted everywhere in the country even though they have their own currency of colones)
- Arroz con pollo (my all-time favorite Tico dish)
- Blue and yellow clothing (This is only if you are a Michigan fan, if not GO HOME)
- Patience for the public buses (Sometimes they run, sometimes they don’t)
- Ladies nights (Clutch for free drinks!)
- Private oceans and pools (we were so spoiled at Salvatierra resort)
- Incredible fellow yogis (I miss the girls already, we scheduled our first book club meeting and began discussions of a December 2024 reunion)
- Expert yoga teachers (Liz and Peggy were incredible and I will be forever grateful!)
- Meditation and reflection (It is so easy to let your mind run wild, but with a daily practice you can find an internal peace and calmness that leads to joy)
- Mi familia tica (16 years later and it’s like no time passed at all)
Wrap it up jen.
I knew Costa Rica would be special which is why this post is so freaking long – I have a lot to say about it. There is history there. However, this time around it felt new. Even though I went to many of the same places, they were unrecognizable. It was as though my mind knew I was in a familiar place but I couldn’t find what I was looking for. So I made new memories.
As I was saying goodbye to my host family for my flight to the US, tears filled my eyes. They were so gracious to me after so many years. They have hosted over 50 students in the last two decades and I feel honored to be one they have kept in touch with. I was not ready to say goodbye to them or for my year of travel to be over; but at the same time, I couldn’t wait to see my other family (the American one)!!
Costa Rica now holds another special place in my heart and that’s related to yoga. The country has managed to alter my life in more ways than one. Namaste is a customary and respectful Hindu greeting to a person or group that is used at any time of day. It is translated to “I bow to you”. It means both hello and goodbye, extends gratitude, and shows respect. At the end of a yoga class, it is typical for a teacher to bow to themselves and their students while saying “namaste”. This time around I say thank you and goodbye to Costa Rica, but I know a time will come in the future where I will say namaSTAY here. Until that time, nos vemos Costa Rica. I will be back soon!
Up next: Detroit, Michigan to spend Christmas with my family!
Signing off for now,
Jennifer